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HomeMy WebLinkAbout2013-04-30 PACKET 02.B.Chicken Run Rescue PO Box 11742 Minneapolis, MN 55411 chickenrunrescue@comcast.net April 20, 2013 We thank the City Council and advisory commissions for the opportunity to share what we have learned about caring for chickens and other domestic fowl in an urban environment. Recommendations for Cottage Grove DO NOT reduce lot size limit OR if lot size limit is reduced • Permit as pets only • DO NOT prohibit roosters • Prohibit slaughter, breeding, sale or barter • Limit number of birds to 5 or fewer • Require 100% consent of neighbors • WRITTEN guidelines for care • Cap number of permits • Allot for additional administrative staff and resources • Allot for enforcement and capture training Help all animals by adopting a plant based diet. Help individual chickens by adopting them as companions. http://www.chickenrunrescue.org I Survey Monkey Comments 2 December 7 -12, 2012 4 Poultry stinks. Unless you are a poultry farmer, you should absolutley NOT be able to 5 keep anything like that on your property. Who the hell wants to wake up to roosters in 6 the cityll 7 12/12/2012 10:32 AMview Responses 9 If this is allowed all neighbors should have the right to say no. The property should 10 have had zero justified City complaints (tall grass, trash cans...) in the past 3 years. The 11 property owner should be required to have a 6 foot privacy fence installed to the 12 standard of a professional installer. 13 12/1112012 4:49 PMview Responses 14 15 1 think that is good, as long as the coop is clean. 16 12/11/2012 12:01 AMview Responses 17 18 a neighbor of mine had some wild one and then move on to rabbits and stinks and then 19 where do they put the droppings? If you open this it will be a disaster. 20 12/11/2012 11:44 AMview Responses 21 22 If I wanted farm life, I would move to the country. I want my neighborhood to be clean. 1 23 don't want a stinky set -up next door. I don't want to noise pollution from poultry or other 24 fowl. And I don't want chicken feathers in my yard. It might be fun for someone for the 25 first month or so, and then it would become work. Would there be setback regulations, 26 and other regulations, that would be STRICTLY enforced? Would there be a limit on 27 how many poultry are allowed? Will structures be taken down if not in use or will they 28 be allowed to sit there and rot? If and when they are taken down, will it be strictly 29 enforced to get decent grass growing there or will the owner be allowed to let the 30 weeds take over? Would the fowl be allowed out of their cages? Would this type of 31 thing bring more birds of prey to the area and make it dangerous for small pets to be 32 outside? My husband and I worked long and hard to get what we've got as have lots of 33 other people. I believe it would bring down the property values. We had a former 34 neighbor here in Cottage Grove who, shortly after we moved into our house, tried 35 raising pheasants in his backyard behind, and in, his shed. It was out of his sight, but in 36 plain view of us. The cage was two feet from the property line. The smell was 37 sickening. After failure, everything just sat there for twenty years. It turned into a junk 38 pile. There was erosion on the site and the hillside. No grass has ever grown there and 39 over the years the dirt area has expanded along with some weeds that I have a hard 40 time keeping out of my yard. I know you would have the ordinances in place, but if the 41 fowl owner is in violation, then it most likely would have to be a neighbor who calls and 42 reports them. If the neighbor asks the fowl owner to take care of something, the fowl 43 owner would most likely get defensive (from my own experience), or worse. Why allow 44 something more to create conflict in neighborhoods? If I were looking to buy a home in 45 CG, I would not buy next to a chicken coop property. And if one of my neighbors Page 1 46 decides to go the chicken route, I will regret the day that we decided to buy a home 47 here. 48 12/11/2012 1:17 AMview Responses 49 5o Keep them like a dog in a kennel, this really puts a green stamp on your home. 51 12/10/2012 7:15 PMview Responses 52 53 I have kept chickens and my neighbors never knew about it. 54 12/10/2012 6:45 PMview Responses 55 56 DO NOT WANT IT AT ALL. 57 ' 12/10/2012 4:39 PMview Responses 58 59 There needs to be a maximum allowable ratio of animals to acreage. A five acre lot 60 can't support a hundred chickens for example. 61 12/10/2012 2:08 PMview Responses 62 63 1 would be more concerned that it would be smelly and people would not maintain 64 things as they should. If I wanted to live by a farm I would have purchased near one. It 65 would be hard to regulate. 66 12/10/2012 12:47 AMview Responses 67 68 1 would be up at every City Council meeting C O M P L A I N I N G! 69 12/10/2012 11:56 AMview Responses 70 71 My parents used to purchase a dozen or so live farm raised chickens from a country 72 farmer, and bring them to our residential home and chop their heads off in our back 73 yard, and boil them and pluck their feathers downsstairs in our home. No thought was 74 ever given to the the legality of it back in the 1950s, We had easter chickens that my 75 siblings and I got for easter when we were small children, and we intended to raise 76 them in a residential back yard pen made out of screens on old wood window frames 77 nailed together or hinged, and the neighbors around us never complained, but a dog 78 broke through the screening and had a pleasant meal out of our easter chicks that we 79 had planned to raise and eat ourselves after they were grown. I hate to deny someone 8o else that we did ourselves in a time that doesn't seem so long ago. 81 12/10/2012 11:37 AMview Responses 82 83 Farm animals belong on a farm. 84 12/10/2012 11:35 AMview Responses 85 86 Just looking at that photo doesn't say much, how close is it to the houses surrounding, 87 what's the smell like, noise? Not muc to decide on from that photo! I wouldn't want that 88 anywhere I could see, hear or smell it! 89 12/10/2012 9:51 AMview Responses 90 91 Provides organic eggs! Page 2 92 12/10/2012 9:31 AMview Responses 93 94 If you pass the ability to keep poultry then I'm getting a miniature pony. 95 12/10/2012 9:07 AMview Responses 96 97 1 would not want this messy, smelly, animal attracting nuisance near by home. I would 98 be upset and emberassed to live in a town that allowed this. I BEG of you to NOT 99 ALLOW THIS!!!!!!!! 100 12/10/2012 8:34 AMview Responses 101 102 The picture example is not the style I would find acceptable in town. There are plenty 1 103 would. This looks like it is for more birds than I would feel should be accepted. 104 12/10/2012 6:34 AMview Responses 105 106 Charge a license fee for each person that does this. Also, when I owned a dog in the 107 past, my neighbors called the police at barking constantly, could neighbors call the 108 police on rooster noise as well, how would that work? Some questions to consider here 109 as each noise disturbance call to the police costs the taxpayer money.... 110 12/9/2012 2:00 PMview Responses 111 112 the only concern is sicknesses that have been associated with chicken coops including 113 respiratory illness emitted from dried poultry/ fowl feces. If the city should allow 114 expanding the ownership of poulty /fowl, they have a responsibility to ensure that all 115 people applying for a permit are educated on the handling and care of poultry/fowl. 116 There should also be high fines if one is caught not adhering to the guidelines. 117 12/9/2012 12:15 AMview Responses 118 119 Gross 120 12/8/2012 10:46 PMview Responses 121 122 i would support it as long as there were rules requiring the pen and area around the 123 coupe were kept clean. that also would require that the POO is disposed of properly 124 12/8/2012 8:02 PMview Responses 125 126 1 would be OK with "a few" animals. my neighbors lots (including mine) are roughly 1/2 127 acre lots. If he wants a goat and 2 chickens or something I wouldn't be ecstatic about it 128 but he pays his taxes and he has to put up with my monster drum set. 129 12/8/2012 5:56 PMview Responses 130 131 My property my rights as long as I comply with reasonable common since standards 132 12/8/2012 4:55 PMview Responses 133 134 How on earth do honeybees get lumped in with goats, pigeons, pot bellied pigs and 135 other wild game? I would be all for neighbors keeping honeybees, they help our 136 gardens and flowers! No thanks on the neighbors having pigs or goats. 137 12/8/2012 3:27 PMview Responses Page 3 138 139 1 am certain that most chicken owners would have much more attractive chicken coops 140 than the one shown in the picture, but I think that the novelty of having neighborhood 141 chickens outweigh the potential dislike of the pen. 142 12/8/2012 3:26 PMview Responses 143 144 If raising farm animals is important to them they should move out to a farm. Poultry and 145 farm animals should not be allowed in the city because of the closer housin situation. 146 12/8/2012 2:28 PMview Responses 147 148 I don't think you want to open "THIS CAN OF WORMS "!!ll 149 12/8/2012 2:12 PMview Responses 150 151 Restrict to no less than a 5 acre lot. 152 12/8/2012 1:45 PMview Responses 153 154 Move to the "country" 155 12/8/2012 1:06 PMview Responses 156 157 1 think you open a can of worms when you allow poultry on a common city lot. 158 12/8/2012 12:54 AMview Responses 159 160 Our lots our way to small to have this be allowed. Who would be monitoring that they 161 keep them code? Is that something else we will have to pay for? 162 12/8/2012 11:54 AMview Responses 163 164 This is a great concept! Both green and cutting edge and good for children to witness. 165 As a 60 year CG resident I heartily support this. 166 12/8/2012 11:23 AMview Responses 167 168 There should be limits based on square footage to make sure the animals have 169 adequate space and are comfortable. 170 12/8/2012 10:57 AMview Responses 171 172 If you want farm animals, move to a farm. I live in a city for a reason. 173 12/8/2012 9:19 AMview Responses 174 175 I think they should have a limit on how many chickens they can have - -maybe only 6. 176 Also, I would like to say the example you posted for a coop and pen area is a very 177 drastic and poor example. I have seen some that look like little dwarf cottages and 178 penned in very nice. It actually enhanced the yard area. 179 12/8/2012 8:32 AMview Responses 180 181 1 love my neighborhood and do not want to see that mess of chicken wire anywhere in 182 it! Not too mention the noise and the oder. People have a hard time picking up after 183 their dog, I can't imagine them cleaning up after their poultry. Do people realize that Page 4 184 they poop all day anywhere they want? Yuck! Support a local farmer a couple of miles 185 away and buy his farm fresh eggs and chickens. 186 12/8/2012 8:23 AMview Responses 187 188 There should be restrictions of course as to the distance a coop has to be to a 189 neighbors property. It should have to be several feet from any property line - 190 12/8/2012 7:39 AMview Responses 191 192 There should be something in here that says if my dog (or cat) kills one of these things 193 because the fowl got loose it isnt the dog owners fault. Also should state that if my dog 194 or cat freaks out and barks meows at the fowl the fowl has to go, not the dog or cat 195 12/8/2012 7:29 AMview Responses 196 197 The picture above doesn't seem very representative of a normal coop /pen from what 198 I've seen. I'd support a more standard looking coop but not this "double- dome" cage. I 199 don't believe hens fly so there would be no need for this type of structure. They can be zoo designed much better and are not much different than an outdoor dog house /kennel. 201 12/8/2012 7:15 AMview Responses 202 203 urban areas are not farms11111111! 204 12/8/2012 5:42 AMview Responses 205 206 There is a distinct difference between urban and rural. These animals belong on a farm. 207 12/7/2012 11:25 PMview Responses 208 209 They would have to be kept clean and with no odor. 210 12/7/2012 11:06 PMview Responses 211 212 If someone wants to keep farm animals, they should buy a farm. 213 1217/2012 11:01 PMview Responses 214 215 1 think the existing ordinance is fine. Minimum of 5 acres to have that type of 216 "domesticated" wildlife is fine. I would not want any neighbor of mine with an urban lot 217 to put up a coop or pen on anything less than 5 acres. 218 12/7/2012 10:43 PMview Responses 219 220 1 think if you would like to have these types of animals you should live ine the country, 221 where they don't bother anyone else. I know I would not like to hear them or smell them 222 everyday. Barking dogs are enough to deal with, I can't imagine rooster crowing in my 223 back yard too. 224 12/7/2012 10:35 PMview Responses 225 226 Free range Chickens in someone's back yard that is fenced in seems perfectly 227 reasonable to me. Louder animals such as roosters, ducks and geese could be very 228 disruptive to neighbors. 229 12/7/2012 10:02 PMview Responses Page 5 230 231 Animals need space. Shouldn't have to be cooped up in a small area. 232 12/7/2012 9:46 PMviewResponses 233 234 1 think that it's ok if it is a farmer that farms land and has at least 5 acres or more! 235 12/7/2012 9:33 PMviewResponses 236 237 1 picked 6000sgft as the minimum area to keep chickens. I'm thinking no more than two 238 per every 6000sgft. 239 12/7/2012 9:30 PMVfew Responses 240 241 1 hope this goes through, thoughts of moving more rural to have chickens have crossed 242 our minds 243 12/7/2012 9:24 PMview Responses 244 245 This is rediculous, should you have farm animals in a residential area... Absolutely Not!! 246 12/7/2012 9:22 PMviewResponses 247 248 Chicks, ducks and other fowl make much less noise and mess than dogs! 249 12/7/2012 9:22 PMview Responses 250 251 If you want a farm , live on a farm!! Not a city street home!!!!!!! I do not want farm 252 animals right outside my damn kitchen window!!! Ugh !!!!!!!!!! 253 121712012 9:06 PMview Responses 254 255 The noise, waste products, and disease potential is not acceptable. If someone wants 256 to keep what I consider to be farm animals, they should simply buy a farm. 257 1217/2012 9:04 PMview Responses 258 259 1 live right next door to the person trying to keep his 4 ducks. They are right under, my 26o kitchen window and I smell gross poop every time I open the window. They are so loud 261 that I can hear them throughout my whole house all the time! Especially when we are 262 outside anywhere. Because of the placement of this persons property to mine, his 263 backyard in directly the side of my house where our deck and windows are. I am also 264 concerned about the ecoli issues that go with having ducks as my children have 265 respiratory issues and 95% of ducks carry ecoli in their feces and it is infested by dust 266 particles being blown in the wind. PLEASE LEAVE THE FARM ANIMALS ON THE 267 FARM! 268 12/7/2012 8:53 PMview Responses 269 27o These are dirty noisy farm animals that belong on a farm. Not in a backyard of a city lot. 271 They would bring a whole new set of issues that our city staff. especially police officers 272 would have to deal with. 273 12/7/2012 8:51 PMview Responses 274 Page 6 275 Go by land out in the country if you want farm animals. They are loud, smell and is 276 going to cause lots of other issues down the road! 277 12/7/2012 8:41 PMview Responses 278 279 Allowing our citizens the opportunity to raise a sustainable resource is a step in the 28o right direction for Cottage Grove. I've seen many lovely, aesthetically pleasing chicken 281 pens and coops. The photo choice seems as if it was selected to sway people's opinion 282 in a less than favorable direction. 283 12/7/2012 8:14 PMview Responses 284 285 This will totally hurt resale of properties, I would conceder selling if this happens. 286 12/7/2012 8:09 PMview Responses 287 288 Would there be an ordinance on how many animals can be present on specific land 289 areas? Will there be some kind of recommendation on pen sizes? Roosters 290 cacadoodldoo'ing each morning? I would live more in the country if I would want that. 291 I'd really prefer this ordinance to not be passed. What is the proper disposal of carcass' 292 if they are allowed to kill the birds onsite? I'd assume that some people would still defy 293 the ordinance and kill their animals on their property which to me could be disease 294 spreading. Thank you. 295 12/7/2012 8:05 PMview Responses 296 297 This is not acceptable. Please read the article attached to your fb post regarding this. 298 This is not for a city lot. This is not ok. 299 12/7/2012 7:48 PMview Responses 300 301 1 do not want any of this next to me. But, if you do allow it a limit on the number animals 302 has to be set. Like 4. Roosters should not be allowed. Drive a chicken or turkey farm 303 and smell it. We don't need that in a neighborhood. If you want to farm, buy a farm. 304 12/7/2012 7:39 PMview Responses 305 306 Sounds like a good idea. 307 12/7/2012 6:56 PMview Responses 308 309 1 really don't want farm animals around my home. It would be most frustrating for the 310 people who do not follow the rules and my guess is CG does not have the proper staff 311 for funding to enforce any ordinace allowing such things. Please don't allow chickens 312 nor other farm animals around here. 313 12/7/2012 6:29 PMview Responses 314 315 1 <heart> free range birds 316 12/7/2012 5:41 PMview Responses 317 318 PETA = People Eating Tasty Animals 319 12/7/2012 5:38 PMview Responses 320 Page 7 321 While there are many who who do it in compliance with the law, I have a huge concern 322 about those who will not. Can the City afford the cost/manpower to policing it? What 323 about fowl that get loose? Can animal shelters handle found birds? I think that during 324 these times of tightening government budgets, Cottage Grove cannot afford to take on 325 this additional cost. 326 12/7/2012 5:26 PMview Responses 327 328 1 think any homeowner in Cottage Grove should be allowed to keep chickens in the 329 backyard. I don't think the noise is an issue as I am sure my two small children are 33o noisier than the chickens would be. Also, I have had many occasions where my , 331 neighbors have noisy dogs. I also have had neighbor cats do their business in my yard. 332 1 think raising chickens is a great way to be "green" and support raising your own food 333 and also bed educational for my children. I think of Cottage Grove as more rural than 334 suburban and I know that St Paul and Minneapolis allow for chickens in residential lots 335 so I am surprised that Cottage Grove has not allowed them up to now. 336 12/7/2012 5:08 PMview Responses 337 338 If I wanted to be near these animals I would live on a farm. This is the City. Not 339 acceptable. 340 12/7/2012 5:06 PMview Responses 341 342 Buy a Farm, I dont want to smell or hear these animals all day and night 343 12/7/2012 4:56 PMview Responses 344 345 This is ridiculus that you are even thinking about this. 346 12/7/2012 4:48 PMview Responses 347 348 The thought of a couple chickens next door doesn't bother me. But looking at the coop 349 and pen makes me feel property values would be affected. It looks trash to me. Not 350 sure how to come to terms w/ the paradox of it. 351 12/7/2012 4:46 PMview Responses 352 353 What's behind done to prevent the spread of disease bringing poultry into the city? 354 12/7/2012 4:46 PMview Responses 355 356 My aunt and uncle in laws have chickens, they are noisy, you have to have lights on 357 inside if the coop(typically ran by extension cords) which would be against state fire 358 code. This would be a horrible ideal 359 12/7/2012 4:39 PMview Responses 360 361 There needs to be a minimum lot size so the noise and smell from livestock doesn't 362 infringe on their neighbors. There's also the issue of lower saleability of a home next to 363 someone with livestock. 364 12/7/2012 4:27 PMview Responses 365 Page 8 366 Allowing chickens or geese would not hurt anyone. Everyone is so concerned about 367 what is going on in someone else's yard, worry about your own yard. Dogs can be 368 noisier and more of a problem and actually hurt people vs a few chickens or geese. 369 Please allow them, what a great educational option for parents /kids as well. Teaching 370 our youth to grow some of their own food is a wonderful idea! 371 12/7/2012 4:18 PMview Responses 372 373 Dogs barking at all hours of the night can be much worse than a few chickens. Maybe 374 don't allow roosters as they can be more noisy than chickens. People want to grow 375 their own food, let there —it is their own backyard after all, not their neighbors or the 376 cities!I! 377 12/7/2012 4:12 PMview Responses 378 379 People should be able to put whatever they want in their backyard, so long as it is not a 38o real danger to anyone 381 12/7/2012 4:10 PMview Responses 382 383 A citizen should be allowed to keep these animals in their yard as long as they don't 384 harm their neighbors. 385 12/712012 3:56 PMview Responses 386 387 This is not acceptable unless you have the space. I am ok with the ducks that live in a 388 pond on a residents but noisy dirty chickens no thank you! If I wanted to live near farm 389 animals I would have purchased a hobby farm. 390 12/7/2012 3:52 PMview Responses 391 392 Keeping urban animals is a detriment to the animals along with the neighbors and 393 citizens. Countless numbers of chickens and ducks are abandoned every year. We do 394 not need to add to that number in Cottage Grove, 395 12/7/2012 3:51 PMview Responses 396 397 If you allow chickens please lower my property taxes when my neighbor builds a 398 chicken coop. Absolutely "no ". Enforce the rules as they are written now. 399 12/7/2012 3:48 PMview Responses 400 401 They belong on a farm. 402 12/7/2012 3:46 PMview Responses 403 404 In regards to coops and fences I feel petiole just need to have at the least a fenced in 405 yard. The chickens should bee allowed to have a grassy area to run around in to bee 406 able to eat grass and bugs. Thank you for considering this. 407 12/7/2012 3:43 PMview Responses 408 409 If you pass it please limit the number of animals /chickens. I thnk it is sure to initate 410 more police calls by cranky neighbors if allowed on smaller properties. 411 12/7/2012 3:42 PMview Responses Page 9 412 413 1 think they should only be allowed if you have the space (5 or more acres) to support 414 them, just as things are now. I did not purchase a lot in a residential neighborhood to 415 smell and look at farm animals every day! 416 12/7/2012 3:23 PMview Responses 417 418 Animals, when not in the coops, must have the owner right next to them in order to 419 ensure they do not find a way into others yards or injure other community members. 420 12/7/2012 3:21 PMview Responses 421 422 1 do not want to hear or smell my neighbors farm animals! If I wanted to live next to a 423 farm I would move there. I will be moving if this passes and my neighbors implement it. 424 Filthy horrid idea that will only deteriorate my property value 425 12/7/2012 3:18 PMview Responses 426 427 Allowing neighbor to keep poultry and farm animals could result in noise that would be 428 disturbng, injurious to sleep patterns and would interfere in my right to enjoy my own 429 property. 430 12/7/2012 3:18 PMview Responses 431 432 ABSOLUTELY NOT TO THIS AMMENDMENT. I grew up on a FARM in the 433 COUNTRY. That is where this kind of thing belongs. UNACCEPTABLE. PERIOD. Want 434 to see property values decrease even more? This would be the way. I want to build the 435 image of CG, not allow this to happen. 436 12/7/2012 3:17 PMview Responses 437 438 If it a farm that's cool if it's a residence I dont think so .... do what Woodbury does ... case 439 closed....... 440 12/7/2012 3:14 PMview Responses 441 442 A limit should be put on the number or "for personal /family consumtion only" should be 443 apart of the ordinence. 444 12/7/2012 3:10 PMview Responses 445 446 1 think it is a good idea 447 12/712012 3:08 PMview Responses 448 449 There is no way I think chickens /ducks should be allowed in a traditional neighborhood. 45o The coops are very unattractive, chickens /ducks smell horrible, and they are loud. They 451 belong on a farm, not in a neighborhood! 452 12/7/2012 3:07 PMview Responses 453 454 The amount of excessive noise should be included in the ordinance, the same type of 455 policy for a dog. 456 12/7/2012 3:07 PMview Responses 457 Page 10 458 Raising out own food without hormones makes all the sense in the world... nothing 459 better that fresh eggs Not to mention the keep the eat their weight in bugs 460 1217/2012 3:03 PMview Responses 461 462 1 am ALL FOR poultry being allowed in a residential backyard but I think the number of 463 adult poultry/fowl or small farm animals should be limited if the animals are in a 464 residential lot. 465 12/7/2012 3:00 PMview Responses 466 467 If I wanted animals in my yard (or next to me), I would move out to the country - or at 468 least more land area. If my neighbor has chickens - what happens if MY dog eats one 469 or more? I do not want that responsibility. I also do not want the noise of the animals. 1 470 grew up on a farm - animals make noise and smells. 471 12/7/2012 2:59 PMview Responses 472 473 Chickens and ducks are no worse than annoying constantly barking dogs that are 474 never dealt with by the city or wandering cats. 475 12/7/2012 2:53 PMview Responses 476 Page 11 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SHELTER CARE FOR CHICKENS Mary Britton Clouse, Chicken Run Rescue, 8/2009 Intake exam protocol: PHYSICAL EXAM FOR CHICKENS http7 / /wwwbrittonclousecom /chickenrunrescue /Copy of °/20PHYSICAL Exam °/20F0R°/20Cc1 pdf Standard procedures: - fecal for intestinal parasites - prophylactic treatment for external parasites for external- poultry dust, Revolution or Ivomec applied topically. Housing: quarantine Large dog size hard carriers are helpful to contain infectious mater and parasites and keep injured birds quiet. Healthy birds should be completely segregated from sick ones or at least stacked on top, sick birds below to prevent gravity borne infectious material. After improvement is seen, can be moved to roomier housing. Medications can be administered in food or drinking water for large groups exposed to illness. Very sick/injured birds need direct administration as prescribed by vet. Reference resource with dosages for chickens: Exotic Animal Formularyby James Carpenter: short term (days) Stainless steel cages with fully opening front door. Solid substrate, no wire flooring. Best situated at chest height for easy capture. Minimum space requirements: 2 sq. ft per bird. Free time during cage cleaning. long term (weeks) Interior dog runs with concrete flooring. Minimum space requirements: 2 sq. ft per bird. Free time during cage cleaning. Outside access very desirable (netted over). Minimum space requirements: 10 sq. ft per bird. Chicks under 6 weeks Provide additional warmth- 95 degrees (heating g pad or low lamp) with access to shade or cool area first week, 10 degrees less each week till room temp reached. 1 sq. ft per bird. Food: - Nutritionally balanced crumble. 0 -18 weeks- Purina Mills@ Start & Grow@ SunFresh@ Recipe 18 weeks and older Purina Mills@ Layena@ SunFresh@ Recipe Sick birds: Roudybush Maintenance crumble. - Fresh greens and fruits. Bread given small amounts. - Cracked corn, seeds are junk food but can be given sparingly as treats. - Fresh deep water in hanging cups (not drip). 1 cup per bird per day minimum. Enrichment furnishings/bedding: - Shredded paper works very well and is cheap and nontoxic. Change daily. - Perches 3" diameter or larger can be placed directly on cage floor. - Hang on dishes (8 oz. or larger per bird) prevent soiling food and water - Handful of hay or straw for stress reducing activity Chicks under 6 weeks: - Provide shallow water less than 1 inch) with rocks in it ( they can drown) - For injured or weak chicks, keep with group but place small bird cage over chick in same pen. Social: - Group in compatible pairs of same sex if possible. Cover chain link of adjoining housing with vinyl poultry fencing to prevent pecking but transparent for socializing. - Segregate or visual barrier for obvious aggression issues. Environment: - Avoid housing with predatory animals (ie dogs). - Avoid noisy, high traffic areas. - Dark for sleeping hours. Capture and Handling: Herd bird to corner using slow deliberate movement. Fast= predator, slow = less threat. Place hands over top part of wings (shoulders) and hold securely but do not squeeze. Pick up and hold under arm to keep wings in place. Support feet with other hand if bird will tolerate. - Restraint for transport or examination: drape towel over shoulders cape style and wrap around body. - Pole nets should only be used with caution to prevent feather breakage or injury. Placement screening and adoption options: For screening checklist, see hftp://www.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/#ADOPT Free to good home placements, swaps, disposal at feed stores for slaughter and blind online classified ads are not responsible or appropriate placement strategies. Establish a contact list of prescreened, responsible rescue organizations with written screening and adoption contracts or individuals with appropriate accommodations (permanent placement, especially rural. Wildlife rehabilitation organizations often have such a list. Many shelters are now using PetFinders or similar sites to place chickens: http://www.petfinder.com/register/index.htmi In addition to placing local ads, there is a site where you can list farm animals available for adoption, including chickens, from all over the country. To prevent people from habitually dumping unwanted animals, they do limit users to one time. That site is: http://www.farmanimaishelters.orci/placementbb.ht m You can also contact the following sanctuary association for advice November 18, 2009 CRR Testimony to Mpls. City Council, Public Safety & Regulatory Services (poultry permit fee increase) RE: Amending Title 4, Chapter 70 of the Minneapolis Code of Ordinances relating to Fowl, Pigeons, and Other Small Animals. This information has been provided to you both in hard copy and electronically. Dear Chair Samuels and Council Members, Chicken Run Rescue (CRR) supports an increase in Permit Application and Fees for Fowl, Pigeons and Other Small Animals. CRR has worked with Minneapolis Animal Care and Control (MACC) since 2001 and with the Animal Humane Society's 5 Metro Area shelters since 2007. After their release from impound, Chicken Run has provided over 600 birds with temporary shelter and vet care, located and screened adopters within 90 miles of the Twin Cities and transported the birds to their new homes. CRR currently has 611 Metro Area subscribers to our adoption newsletter whose primary interest is caring for companion chickens. Permitting of an animal is a privilege not a right because it impacts the resources of tax funded municipal services such as animal control. There are provisions in city ordinances for the keeping of companion animals because they are widely viewed as family members as long as the animals are properly cared for and they do not negatively impact other residents in densely populated neighborhoods, that practice is compatible with urban living. Please see the attached joint Position Statement of the country's largest coalition of animal sanctuaries involved in the direct care of unwanted chickens. As the popularity of raising backyard flocks has grown, our shelters have become inundated with calls to take in unwanted chickens. In addition, we understand many communities are now besieged with requests to legally regulate the keeping of backyard flocks. Backyard chicken - keeping by amateurs raises many serious concerns regarding both the well being of the birds, and the community. Facets of raising domestic fowl solely as a food source that are unfamiliar to most urban dwellers include - killing and disposal of males who comprise 50% of the birds hatched (see "INSIDE A HATCHERY ", 9/1/09 NY Daily News coverage of Hy -Line Hatchery Spencer Iowa, a typical modem industrial hatchery with footage of chick sexing, rooster disposal and debeaking.) - killing or disposal of hens whose egg production peaks at 18 months of age but have a life expectancy of as much as 14 years- the same as a dog or cat - home videos on YouTube of backyard chicken slaughter. (we reside in North Minneapolis and do not wish to witness any additional violence in our neighborhood) - shipment of day old chicks by mail -a process that subjects them to temperature extremes, injury, and sustenance deprivation. - costs startup costs average $2000- 3870, supplies and utilities $288 per year per bird, - vet care $100 minimum per year per bird If city residents are unable or unwilling to pay the application and permit fees to cover the City's costs for regulating domestic fowl, what is the likelihood of investing in their proper care? Moreover, Backyard chicken - keeping raises serious concerns about ordinance enforcement issues, and the burden placed on already overwhelmed local shelters when birds are abandoned, seized, or surrendered. In past years we have rescued, cared for and placed in permanent t homes an average of 30 birds a year. This year we have had surrender inquiries for 215 fowl since April 1, 2009. When We started Chicken Run Rescue in 2001, there were fewer than 26 chicken permits in Minneapolis. Today there are over 90 permits issued and over 90 more pending. For every permit there can be anywhere from 3 to 25 birds per household. These figures only include city residents actually going through the required permit process and do not include people who are unaware of or unwilling to get permits so there could be anywhere from 540 to 4500 new permitted chickens in Minneapolis. Since the compliance rate for cat licenses is about 3 %, its reasonable to assume the same for chickens, so there could be an additional 18,000 to 150,000 unpermitted chickens in Minneapolis alone. The same trend is occurring in St. Paul, Metro Area suburbs and nation wide. Those figures do not include the number of offspring that might be produced by accidental or intentional breeding. Animal complaints rank at the top of the demands for city services in Minneapolis. The explosion of activity has created a whole new population of animals requiring regulation, administration of permits, enforcement / inspections, sheltering costs for impounded / seized / surrendered birds, and complaint response now to include regulation of and complaint response to residents engaging in backyard slaughter which is an issue of concern for zoning and health agencies as well. This taxes an already overburdened and understaffed agency with a whole host of new challenges, not the least of which is the time consuming task of capturing strays and identifying species. A few weeks ago, we were called to rescue a hen who was running loose and terrified in a parking ramp at 11th and Marquette. The citizen who called us had spent a morning searching for someone to help- 311 had erroneously informed her that Minneapolis Animal Care and Control "does not do chickens" and advised her to call pest control. We then provided her with a direct number to MACC and after an hour of effort, the animal control officer was unable to capture the hen. We again were contacted and were able to capture her. Thank you very much for your consideration. For more information, please visit our websites or contact CRR or and we'll be more than happy to talk with you. Sincerely, Mary Britton Clouse Albert Clouse Chicken Run Rescue Minneapolis, MN chickenninrescue@comcast.net http://www.chickenrunrescue.pettinder.arg http://www.bdttonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ "If robin redbreast in a cage puts all heaven in a rage, how feels heaven when dies the billionth battery hen ?" - -Spike Milligan ABOUT CHICKEN RUN RESCUE: Every year, domestic fowl, mostly chickens, are impounded by Minneapolis Animal Control (MAC) and 5 Metro Area humane societies. These birds are victims of neglect, abuse and abandonment, sometimes used as a source of eggs or intended for slaughter, fighting or ritual sacrifice. Some are the discarded outcome of "nature lessons" for children or after a hobby that no longer holds interest. After their release from MAC, Chicken Run provides the birds with temporary shelter and vet care, locates and screens adopters within 90 miles of the Twin Cities and transports the birds to their new homes. Chicken Run Rescue is the only urban chicken rescue of its kind and receives no support from any other organizations, institutions or agencies and depends entirely on donations and sales of art merchandise to continue helping chickens. There is a special need for rooster homes. Don't breed or buy- Adopt! There are never enough homes for displaced animals. City of Cottage Grove's Facebook Comments December 7 -11, 2012 o Dave LeVake, Terri Tufte, Kim Smrstick Beaton and 9 others like this. Kali Taylor Amanda Kowalski December 7 at 1:48pm via mobile Thomas Carlson Here is an article about chickens in the city. http: / /www.chickenrunrescue.org/ collective %20state %20111809.pdf December 7 at 1:51pm Kevin Johnson I say.... If you wanna be a farmer buy a farm December 7 at 2:34pm via mobile ■ Jeff Rothecker City of St. Paul allows it and most of their lots are smaller than the ones here in Cottage Grove. December 7 at 2:49pm Is , Kevin Johnson Well there you go.... Go live in st Paul .... lol December 7 at 3:12pm via mobile Elspeth Atkinson GREAT article link above! December 7 at 3:17pm f Kell! Jankovich- McDaniel Chickens (Not roosters) make a lot less noise and mess than most dogs do! A few birds would do no harm. December 7 at 7:36pm ' Becky Fox I grew up on a farm raising chickens, ducks and geese -I left for a reason and sure hope my neighbors don't get to raise them in their backyard which is really close to mine! Believe it or not, you really wouldn't need to drive far to buy them from a local farmer and they are more work than most people realize. December 7 at 8:28pm via mobile A r— Jean Jacobs Glaraton Glad to have the opportunity to voice my opinion through the survey. December 7 at 9:28pm Jill Eriksen Sheppard If anyone is concerned about the inhumane treatment of chickens then they really need to consider where the grocery store chickens come from http: / /www.youtube.com /watch?v= enwU5jIXSI U Saturday at 4:48am 7 30= Thomas Carlson Last summer we had a chicken fly into our yard in Cottage Grove. Its legs were bound together tightly with string so it was unable to walk correctly. My daughter caught the chicken and removed the string and found a place in Minneapolis that would take the chicken and find it a home. It took a month or two before the chicken was big enough to determine that it was a rooster and not a hen. Saturday at 7:02am IM Dennis Breisler I want a goat. Saturday at 8:29am zo Lewis Stein Nol! Saturday at 10:32am via mobile ii Gene LeVake I don't think you want to open "THIS CAN OF WORMS" H! 1! Saturday at 12:20pm � Will Hohenstein Green acres Is the place for me. Farm livin' is the life for me. Land spreadin' out so far and wide Keep Manhattan, just give me that countryside. Saturday at 3:58pm Angel Popowitz really ?? ! hope this survey on Facebook is not your deciding factor for this problem that has been sitting on the city council for more than 4 MONTHSII! are you sending this survey out with our water bill so it can be seen by EVERY person who lives in cottage grove ? ?? Saturday at 5:20pm Susan Farr Make sure to charge a license fee for each person who wants to do this who lives in urban CG because you will need to accumulate enougth income to offset the cost of constant calls to the police for animal noise disturbance caused by roosters. Sunday at 12:06pm ]en Peterson Roosters would not be allowed. Sunday at 8:58pm via mobile %ImiLT�M Natalie Seim Oltman Jr. High had baby ducks that they hatched in science. Daughter brought one home. We raised them (2) from babies, and it imprinted with us. It walked around the yard with me when I watered the garden. It turned it's heads when the jets flew over. They were fun. We made a cage for them, had a small round pool for water, and like others we knew that had them from Otlman, they get too big to keep in our yard. They poop a lot, and that needs to be taken care of. You need to keep them safe because we do have fox around here (so they needed a cage at night). It was a lot of work. I know some people released the ducks to the ponds, we took ours to a friend's hobby farm. I think if they have a proper place for chickens and they weren't noisy I would agree. Ducks, more work! Other cities have these. Would have to address their waste /poop disposal. As long as the parties surrounding the home agree with a signature, I would agree. ( I think that is what some cities do). Sunday at 11:11pm City of Cottage Grove Facebook - Sharing Pages December 7 -11, 2012 Jon LeVake Heriot I would love to have chickens in MY back yard. With the right rules and regulations (no roosters) it can be a great thing!! Many cities are now considering this; just passed in Stillwater. Hoping Hudson will do the same some day. Now having cows, goats or other "farm animals" is a whole other story - hal I'll have to pass this on to my family living in CG. Saturday at 2:35am via mobile Nicole Tennis I do have farm animals In my neighbors backyard. Don't remind Jesse of the wild boar. Too soon! Saturday at 7:57am via mobile Jill Erikson Sheppard Jennifer Schottmuller Bierma Here's the survey link.:) December 7 at 9:47pm Jill Erikson Sheppard via Amelia La Casse Please give your input to the City of Cottage Grove in favor of allowing backyard chickenslll December 7 at 5:09pm Elspeth Atkinson Amy ... good to know!! This is all new to me. I love the Idea of fresh healthy eggs. I am just too wary sometimes and assume the worst of what some people would do. December 7 at 9:58pm Jill Erikson Sheppard I think the chicken industry as a whole are the worst offenders of treating chickens inhumanely and those that want to raise a few in their backyards are in a different category http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enwU5jlXSIU Food, Inc. - Industrial Chicken Farmers Clip from Food, Inc. in which small southern farmers are beholden to large corpo... See More Saturday at 6:51 am Anita Morrill I posted the survey link to our local Urban Chicken Farmers group, too. The questions on the survey continue to bother me, though, in terms of private property rights. You shouldn't really have to ask "permission" of any level of government to do as you see fit on your own property..... Saturday at 9:21 am Anita Morrill As an example, Des Moines code: http://Iibrary.municode.com/HTMU13242/level3/MUCO—CH1 8AN I N G E. htm I #M UCO_C H 18AN_ARTI I NG E_S 18 -4AG NOAN EXAN Sec. 18-4. - Agricultural nondomestic animals and exotic animals.(a)No horse, cow, calf, swine, shee l i b ra ry. m u n i co d e. co m No person, while herding or driving any animals mentioned in section 184 of thi... See More Saturday at 9:30am Francisco Gonzalez via City of Cottage Grove, MN - City Government mmm ... can I keep an nandu too? See Translation December 7 at 3:34pm Poultry and Fowl Opinion Survey Cottage Grove, MN The definition for "farm animal" in Cottage Grove's City Code includes chickens and ducks. City ordinances allow farm animals in any zoning district, but a minyg 7 of five acres of land is required. %)v The City has been asked to consider allowing poultry a r�'fhe back yard of urban residential lots. An urban residential lot i I a 60 -100 feet wide lot with a lot area of 7,500- 11,000 sq. ft. (0.117��0.?.5�p� are). w The City of Cottage Gro, 00ar your op w r� ; $O g poultry and fowl in backyards. O ,,-` 9 amo Q YES NO At e you a Cotta meowner in an urban residential 14 0 neighborhood 2. Should people living in an apartment or townhouse complex be 0 14 allowed to keep poultry or fowl penned -up outside? 3. Do you object to your neighbor keeping chickens in their back 13 1 yard? 4. Do you object to your neighbor keeping fowl (e.g. wild ducks, 14 0 g eese, turkeys, etc.) in their back yard? 5. Would you object to your neighbor keeping a rooster(s) in their 13 1 back yard? 6. Should the owner of poultry and /or fowl be allowed to butcher the 0 14 animal on an urban residential lot? 7. Should the owner of poultry and /or fowl be required to provide 11 1 coops and fences for the poultry and /or fowl in their back yard? 8. Should the owner of poultry and /or fowl be allowed to sell eggs 4 8 from their urban residential lot? 9. Should keeping poultry and /or fowl in the back yard of an urban 11 1 residential lot require a minimum lot area? 10. If you answered YES to question No. 9, what should the minimum F' lot area be? Select only one option below: Responses: 0 6,000 square foot lot area tYR S ' i '".11R Y 1 12,000 square foot lot area 4 One -half acre (21,780 square feet) 1 One acre (43,560 square feet) 0 Two acres (87,120 square feet)< 5 Five acres (217,800 square feet) n, OVER QUESTION: YES NO 11. Would you support an ordinance amendment that allows residents on an urban residential lot to keep other small farm animals (e.g. 0 14 pigmy goats, pot - bellied pigs, honeybees, pigeons and other wild game) in their back yard? 12. Assuming this photograph of a coop and pen complies with all ordinance regulations; would you accept its placement on the urban residential lot next to your property? t C c s 2 ��2 ' , ,0%1 i 13. Do you have additl PPtomments you would like to say regarding a homeowner keeping poultry and /or fowl in the back yard of their urban reSlgenual lot In Goitage Grovel RESPONSES: 1. No chickens, poultry, pigs ... Move- 2. Buy rural land for all livestock on 5 acres. 3. 1 can see a lot of tension amongst neighbors, stink, noise, attracting other animals. These people need to live on acreage to do such a thing! 4. This should not be allowed. 5. Should not be allowed. 6. Don't allow anv farm anim als in the citv. Rats will come. [11=M 91, Thank you for participating in this Opinion Survey. Some of the results from the survey may be presented to the Cottage Grove Planning Commission on December 17, 2012. The Planning Commission will meet in the City Council Chambers at the Public Safety /Fire and City Hall; 12800 Ravine Parkway at 7:00 PM. This meeting is open to the public. If you have questions, contact John McCool, Senior Planner at 651 - 458 -2874 or 9 mccool ,cottage- grove.orq CDC Features - Keeping Backyard Poultry Page 1 of 4 Centers for Disease Central and prevention CDC 24/7. Saving Lives. Protecting Peopfe,TM Keeping Backyard Poultry Live poultry, such as chickens, ducks, geese, and turkeys, often carry harmful germs called Salmonella. After you touch a bird, or anything in the area where they live and roam, wash your hands so you don't get sick! An increasing number of people around the country are choosing to keep live poultry, such as chickens or ducks, as part of a greener, healthier lifestyle. While you enjoy the benefits of backyard chickens and other poultry, but it is important to consider the risk of illness, especially for children, which can result from handling live poultry or anything in the area where they live and roam. It's common for chickens, ducks, and other poultry to carry. Salmonella, which is a type of germ that naturally lives in the intestines of poultry and many other animals and is shed in their droppings or feces. Even organically fed poultry can have Salmonella. While it usually doesn't make the birds sick, Salmonella can cause serious illness when it is passed to people. Salmonella can make people sick with diarrhea, vomiting, fever, and /or abdominal cramps. Sometimes, people can become so sick from a Salmonella infection that they have to go to the hospital. Infants, elderly persons, and those with weakened immune systems are more likely than others to develop severe illness. When severe infection occurs, Salmonella may spread from the intestines to the bloodstream, and then to other body sites and can cause serious illness and even death unless the person is treated promptly with antibiotics. Check out the questions and answers below for more information on Salmonella infection and how to prevent getting germs from live poultry. You may also obtain further information by talking to your health care provider or your animal's veterinarian. How do people get Salmonella infections from live poultry? Live poultry may have Salmonella germs in their droppings and on their bodies (feathers, feet, and beaks) even when they appear healthy and clean. The germs can also get on cages, coops, hay, plants, and soil in the area where the birds live and roam. Additionally, the germs can be found on the hands, shoes, and clothing of those who handle the birds or work or play where they live and roam. People become infected with Salmonella when they put their hands or other things that have been in contact with feces in or around their mouth. Young children are especially at risk for illness because their immune systems are still developing and because they are more likely than others to put their fingers or other items into their mouths. It is important to wash your hands immediately after touching poultry or anything in the area httn: / /www.edatiov /features /salmonellaooultrv/ 4/18/2013 CDC Features - Keeping Backyard Poultry Page 2 of 4 where they live and roam, because the germs on your hands can easily spread to other people or things. What are some ways to reduce the risk of Salmonella infection from live poultry? • Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water immediately after touching live poultry or anything in the area where they live and roam. Avoid touching your mouth before washing your hands. Use hand sanitizer if soap and water are not readily available. • Adults should supervise hand washing for young children. • Wash hands after removing soiled clothes and shoes. • Do not let children younger than 5 years of age handle or touch chicks, ducklings, or other live poultry without supervision. • Do not eat or drink in the area where the birds live or roam. • If you collect eggs from the hens, thoroughly cook them, as Salmonella can pass from healthy looking hens into the interior of normal looking eggs. • Do not let live poultry inside the house, in bathrooms, or especially in areas where food or drink is prepared, served, or stored, such as kitchens, or outdoor patios. • If you have free - roaming live poultry, assume where they live and roam is contaminated. • Clean equipment and materials associated with raising or caring for live poultry, such as cages or feed or water containers, outside the house, not inside. at are the signs, symptoms, and types of treatment available for Salmonella infections? You can learn more about the signs, symptoms and treatment of Salmonella infection by visiting the CDC Salmonella web site (/salmonella) . If you suspect you or your child has Salmonella infection, contact your health care provider immediately and mention recent contact with live poultry. htti): / /www.cdc.gov /features /salmonellai)oultry/ 4/18/2013 CDC Features - Keeping Backyard Poultry Page 3 of 4 Are there any policies about owning live poultry? Rules and regulations vary by city, county, and state ordinances, so check with your local government to determine rules and regulations about owning live poultry. More Information of a Salmonella 1 Make ii (but Spanish: • CDC's Healthy Pets • CDC.gov Feature: R Tj [PDF -'726 KBl • Send a Health -e -Card: Teach Hand Washing ( http: / /t.ede.gov /ecards /message.aMx? candid =297) • CDC's Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report (MMWR) — recent publications Notes from the Field: Multistate Outbreak of Salmonella Altona and Johann( PIS a��Arnaorot.)W9e►seuaCA= O . CDi s cid= mm,612ai e) • CDC Kidtastics Podcast: Why Parents Should Think Twice Before Giving Baby Birds to Young Children for Easter ( http:// www2c. cdc .gov /podeasts /player.asp ?f =uu7) • CDC Xidtastics Pod cast: Wash Your Hands ( httD:// www2c .cdc.aov /Dodeasts /ulaver.asD? CDC works 24/7 saving lives and protecting people from health threats to have a more secure nation. A US federal agency, CDC helps make the healthy choice the easy choice by putting science and prevention into action. CDC works to help people live longer, healthier and more productive lives. Page last reviewed: April 23, 2012 http://www.ede.vov/features/salmonellavoultry/ 4/18/2013 CDC Features - Keeping Backyard Poultry Page 4 of 4 Page last updated: April 23, 2012 Content source: National Center for Emerging and Zoonotic Infectious Diseases Division of Foodborne, Waterborne, and Environmental Diseases Page maintained by: Office of the Associate Director for Communication, Division of News and Electronic Media Centers for Disease Control and Prevention r600 Clifton Rd. Atlanta, GA _� 30333, USA � T 800- CDC -INFO (800-232 -4636) TTY: (888) 232 -6348 - Contact CDC -INFO SA.gov " Government Made Easy http: / /www.ede.gov /features /salmonellapoultry/ 4/18/2013 BASIC CHICKEN CARE Mary Britton Clouse Chicken Run Rescue 2010 CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE ACQUIRING A CHICKEN lifespan - Chickens can live as long as a dog or cat- up to 14 years or longer. - Egg laying for a hen generally starts at 6 months old, peaks at 18 months and declines with age. cost - Start Up costs for coop, maintenance, tools, cleaning, equipment, heating / cooling appliances, dishes, nets, food storage, scale, fencing, security locks, lighting, motion detectors, monitors, cameras, permit application ($2- 3,000) - Annual supplies per bird for food, bedding, nutritional supplements, hygiene supplies, permit fee, utilities ($300) - Vet care per bird per service (office exam $66, fecal test $28, plus other services as needed for illness or injury). Are you able to provide the birds with proper veterinary care needed? time - Average 1 hour per bird per day minimum for cleaning, parasite control, grooming, physical exam, travel time to purchase supplies, construction, repair, medication, feeding, supervise free time out of pen. - Chickens need to be tended to twice daily. Will you have a person ready to substitute for you when you have reason to be absent? space At least a 6'W x 121 x 6'H space in a yard is needed for a coop and pen for 4 birds in addition to a larger fenced area for regular exercise. location Coop and pen should be located in an area that provides shade, direct sunlight, good drainage and protection from prevailing winds and will not present a problem to neighbors. uninvited guests Chickens will attract bird mites and lice, mice, yard birds, squirrels, raccoons, dogs, coyotes, fox, mink, opossum, rats, owls, bobcats, hawks, snakes, weasels, ferrets, fisher, marten and humans. ACQUIRING A CHICKEN ADOPTION OR PURCHASE /BREEDING? The recent interest in having chickens has overwhelmed animal rescue organizations with inquiries from people wanting to give up chickens who are no longer wanted. Like all other animals surrendered to shelters, rescue organizations cannot help them all. There are never enough homes for displaced animals so adoption of birds who need homes is always the kindest choice instead of purchase from a breeder or hatchery. adoption- By adopting from a rescue organization or a private individual, you can know what to expect with regard to the bird's health, sex, behavior and personality. Reputable rescue organizations can provide advice on selecting the right bird, care information and generally have a generous return policy to insure that bird will be happy, compatible and well cared for. http•// www. bdttonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 1 2/5/10 purchase /breeding- The identification of the sex of chicks by feed stores, breeders and hatcheries is often wrong and not apparent until the bird is 6 months old. 50% of the chicks hatched are roosters who are killed or otherwise discarded of as waste. Newborn chicks shipped through the postal service are deprived of their mothers, warmth and food. The younger the bird the more fragile and difficult they are to care for. HEALTHY BIRD CHECKLIST Eyes: clear, clean, wide open, alert Face / comb / wattle: clean, soft, blemish free, healthy deep red indicating good blood supply, (some faces are not red) Posture: head erect, good balance, stand or perch on both feet on extended legs, good grip on perch, facing activity Odor: none or slightly fermented hay Beak / nostrils: clean, uniform, shiny and solid Legs / feet: clean, shiny, uniform scales and nails, foot bottom soft and blemish free, legs and toes straight and functional Feathers; clean, bright, shiny, smooth or fluffy, free of mites or lice Wings: held close to body, symmetrical, smooth movement in joints when flexed, flight feathers intact Skin: clean, soft, pale pink and translucent (some breeds have bare red patches at shoulders and keel), free of mites or lice Droppings: 70% odorless green / white, firm, 30% stinky brown pasty (cecal), watery if stressed Keel (sternum): Straight, good muscle mass on either side, lump free Crop (on bird's right side of lower neck): full, contents of consumed food easily palpated Vent: petite, clean, moist, soft, pliant Respiration: 12 -37 per min., inspiration louder and shorter than expiration, minimal chest movement, closed beak NUMBER OF BIRDS Calculating available space, time, and cost (see above) will dictate how many birds can be properly cared fo r: coop: 4 sq. feet of floor space minimum per bird for the interior (an area 2 ft. x 2 ft. per bird) pen: 10 sq. ft of floor space minimum per bird (an area 3 ft. x 3.3 ft per bird) range/ exercise yard: 174 sq. ft per bird (an area about 10 ft. x 17 ft per bird) A single chicken is a sad chicken. Plan to have at least 2- they are flock animals and need the companionship of other chickens. Generally, 3 -5 compatible chickens can be well maintained in a typical city environment. Individual bird's sex, age and temperament can affect compatibility. Over crowding chickens is the most common mistake. Hens should outnumber roosters. Sometimes single birds can thrive with a human friend if they have special needs. Roosters, single or in pairs, are very sociable and can make terrific companions if handled gently and often. HANDLING & RESTRAINT Never handle a chicken by wings, feet or legs. Herd bird to corner using slow deliberate movement. Fast= predator, slow = less threat. Place hands over top part of wings (shoulders) and hold securely but do not squeeze. Pick up and hold under arm to keep wings in place. Support feet with other hand if bird will tolerate. To restrain for transport or examination, drape a towel over shoulders cape style and wrap around body. TRANSPORTATION Consider travel time and avoid extreme weather conditions. Heat exhaustion can develop quickly, interior car temps can reach fatal point 10 minutes. Medium sized hard pet carriers work well for http7//WWW.brittonclouse.com/chicken run rescue/ Page 2 2/5/10 security, safety, stress. Line with a towel, shredded paper or straw. Food is a good stress reducer. Offer wet food like greens or cucumber for long trips. ARRIVAL If other birds are already present, a 2 week quarantine in a separate area is recommended to watch for signs of illness and parasites. Avoid noisy, high traffic areas and allow the bird to acclimate before introducing to other birds, animals and family. PROVIDING A GOOD HOME NATURAL HISTORY It is important to understand how chickens live in the wild and to provide them with an environment that meets those instinctive physical and psychological needs as closely as possible. Chickens are all descended from Tropical Jungle Fowl are adapted to living in a natural habitat that is spacious, richly vegetated, diverse and warm. This presents a particular challenge in a small urban setting in a cold climate like Minnesota. Flocks have a highly developed social structure and depend on each for companionship and security. Naturalists have observed that they can recognize and remember 180 other individual flock members. They are ground dwelling birds. Most are capable of low flight in short distances, smaller birds can fly higher and farther. In the wild they roost in trees at dusk before they sleep or to escape predators. They hide their nests in cavities in the ground. The majority of their waking hours are spent active, wide ranging, grazing, foraging for food- plants, bugs and occasionally small rodents. In their natural state. They typically travel 1/2 mile form their roost each day. In the wild, they are never over crowded- if the population becomes to dense, members will break off into subgroups and spread out. They move on from one area to another which allows food sources to regenerate and their waste is not concentrated in one place and it can decompose without health risk to the flock. Roosters alert the flock to danger, find food and call the hens to it and stand guard as they eat. They select and build nests and will even participate in caring for the young. They also act as peace keepers to intervene in disputes that can develop between flock members. Roosters will start to crow and display courting behaviors at about 6 months of age. It is essential to gently handle a rooster on a daily basis to establish that you are the flock leader (Alpha) and maintain a well socialized companion. The hens spend their time scratching for food, dust bathing, preening, playing and napping. Hens begin to lay eggs at about 6 months of age. Hen in the wild produce only a few clutches of eggs a year for the sole purpose of reproduction. Domesticated hens have been bred to lay one egg a day but by 18 month of age, egg laying frequency generally diminishes and many adult or senior hens stop laying altogether. Chickens are sociable, cheerful and intelligent creatures who can form lifelong bonds with each other and other species including humans, dogs and cats. Because of their keen intelligence and instinctive physical activity, they need a stimulating environment that mimics as much as possible the rich and diverse world nature designed them to enjoy. COOP, PEN, RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD "Housing and infrastructure. The primary purpose of poultry housing is to protect flocks against adverse weather and predators (coyote, fox, stray dogs, raccoons and raptors). Weather is of critical concern in the Upper Midwest, where summers can be extremely hot and winters bitterly cold. Housing must http:// www. brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 3 2/5/10 provide shade from sun and cover from rain. It must be able to withstand high winds and snow loads if it is to be used for year -round operation. These basic housing considerations apply to all poultry' - "Poultry your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest', Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 COOP: The house, closed structure or enclosed room which provides shelterfrom cold, heat, wind, rain, snow and predators for protected roosting, nesting, feeding and watering space. Construction & Materials — Coops can be purchased ready made or in kits, constructed within an existing structure or built from scratch. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from snow, wind, etc. NOTE: rabbit hutches, plastic igloos, dog houses and such are not appropriate structures. Required features: size: 4 sq. feet of floor space minimum is required per bird for the interior (an area 2 ft. x 2 ft. per bird). So 4 birds will need a coop with at least 4 feet x 4 feet inside floor space not including nest boxes. Outside dimensions should be about 5 feet by 5 feet x 6 ft. high. Overcrowding is the most common cause of behavior problems, injury and disease. Coop should be high enough for a human to stand up comfortably for cleaning, maintenance and egg collection. It also allows for additional roosting. Temperament and social structures should be taken into account, and partitions should be available for birds who are sick, injured or lower in the pecking order. access to electricity is required in free standing structures. floor —The floor should not collect and hold moisture, be easy to clean, retain heat in cold weather and exclude rodents /predators. A dirt floor draws heat away and is not easy to clean or rodents /predators proof. A wood floor is adequate provided it is at least a foot off the ground, insulated and sealed properly but is difficult to sanitize because it is porous. a concrete floor is ideal since it discourages rodents /predators and ids easy to sanitize. Regardless of the floor type, bedding strewn on the surface is needed is to absorb moist fecal matter and facilitate cleaning. Leaves or wood shavings work best and can be composted or easily bagged and disposed of as solid waste. walls- Materials that are resistant to moisture and mold and easily cleaned are best. Chemically treated materials should be nontoxic. A good compound with anti fungal agents is good for humid areas. Clear varnish is also good. Everything should be treated or painted before it is assembled. Wooden structures should be draft free and built with double walls that have at least 11/2 inch insulated layer between them. roof: The coop roof should be made of a material that will not collect and hold heat and should be built with double walls that have at least 11/2 inch insulated layer between them. The roof surfaced should be covered with an insulating tar paper to protect from heavy rains. The roof should be slightly inclined, to allow water to run off and if it overhangs at the front wall it will protect from downpours. A few small openings along the eaves allow moisture to escape and provide fresh air. doors: One human -size door is needed for daily access. Doors for chickens should be just large enough for the largest bird and can be positioned anywhere from ground level to about 2 feet high with a stable ramp with cleats. Chickens are ground dwellers, not parrots -small doors at heights greater than 3 feet with flimsy, unstable ladders are not appropriate. Doors must be able to be secured against predators at night. windows: Chickens love windows and need natural light. Double glaze for warmth. Cover with 1/2" metal screen so they can be opened for ventilation in hot weather. Allow one square foot of window for each 10 square foot of floor space. roosts: Lumber or branches can be used. They should be strong enough and mounted securely enough to hold all birds. The surface should be rough for good grip with no splinters or sharp edges. For medium sized birds, 2" or 4 " flat or 11/2" diameter is best for foot comfort. The longer roost the better to prevent competition. They should be set 18" from wall, 2 -3 feet off the floor. If mounted higher, rung steps are needed spaced 8 -12 inches apart. The addition of a dropping board underneath and elevated roost will collect droppings and keep floor space below clean and inhabitable. http7//WWW.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 4 2/5/10 climate: Shelters should be kept at a comfortable temperature for the animals. "Minimum Temperature 55 °(f) , maximum temperature 70 °(F)" - "Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest ", Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 The coop should be heated to maintain a temperature above 32 degrees during the coldest part of the winter and cooled below 85 in the hottest part of the summer. Below 32 degrees birds are uncomfortable and cannot maintain body temperature. Below 15 degrees frostbite begins, and hypothermia increases. Oil or water filled safety heaters (i.e. brands Pelonis, DeLonghi, Honeywell) are completely closed and sealed systems that run on electricity. The oil is heated from within and the heat is radiant so there are no exposed heating elements that create dangerous problems even if they tip over. Heat lamps should only be used with extreme caution and be firmly attached at least 3 feet from animals and far from any flammable item, especially dry straw or bedding. Smoke alarms are highly recommended. Extra bedding should be available to keep animals warm and comfortable in cold seasons. Between 75 and 85 degrees, panting and dehydration begin, above 85 heat stress and danger of heat prostration increases. ventilation- Doors, windows and vents near the ceiling supply oxygen, remove heat from breathing, remove moisture from breath and droppings, harmful gasses and dust particles, and dilute disease causing airborne organisms. Fans should be provided for hottest weather. light: Natural fight from windows and /or skylights is required. Can be supplemented with full spectrum incandescent light to follow normal seasonal light cycles and for cleaning and maintenance. The minimum light intensity you should provide should be enough to clearly see the hens feed when standing over the feeder. feeders: Food receptacles should be made of non - corrosive material that is easily cleaned minimizes spillage, prevents contamination with droppings and keeps food dry. The containers should be large enough for all the birds to comfortably eat at once or numerous enough to prevent competition or intimidation. Large heavy rubber feed buckets work nicely. Hanging dishes or feeders work as well and should be hung at about the level of the bird's back. If dishes are outside the coop, they should be set under an overhang to keep them dry when it rains. waterers: Water receptacles should be made of non - corrosive material that can be cleaned and disinfected with a solution of chlorine bleach, prevent contamination with droppings and is spill and leak proof. The containers should be large enough for all the birds to comfortably drink at once and hold enough water for all birds for an entire day. They should be slightly positioned higher than the feeder or far enough away to prevent contamination with food. nestboxes- One nest box for every 3 hens. A 12 "W x 12 "D x 14 "H is most versatile. Chickens prefer wooden nest boxes with covered opening for privacy placed on or as low to the floor as possible. If set higher they require a perch in front of the opening. They should be filled with 2 -4 inches of straw. litter or grass. They prefer to nest in the South East corner of the structure whenever possible. PEN: The fenced area surrounding the coop that provides secure access to exercise, sunlight, earth and vegetation and is freely available to the birds when they are unsupervised. It is constructed to prevent the bird's escape and prevents entry by intruders /predators. Construction & Materials— Kennel pens can be purchased ready made or in kits, or built from scratch. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from snow, wind, etc. Temperament and social structures of flock should be taken into account, and partitions should be available for birds who are sick, injured or lower in the pecking order. Required features: size: 10 sq. ft of floor space minimum per bird (an area 3 ft. x 3.3 ft per bird) is required so 4 birds will need floor space of at least 6 feet x 7 feet. If the coop is adjacent to the pen at least a 6 x 12 foot space in a yard is needed. If the coop is elevated 2 feet so the chickens can use the space underneath, the coop and pen can occupy some but not all of the same footprint. If most of the pen is in deep shade all http7//WWW.bdttonclouse.com/Chickenrunrescue/ Page 5 2/5/10 of the time it would be conducive to unhealthy bacteria and fungal development. The pen should be high enough for you to stand up comfortably for cleaning maintenance, capture and also allows for additional roosting. substrate- Choose a well drained area. Substrate material for the pen should be clean, non - toxic, biodegradable, readily available, inexpensive and replaceable. Since it will become compacted from little feet and contaminated by concentrated droppings and parasites, it will need to be raked out and replaced frequently to reduce odor and fly activity. Play sand, leaves, municipal wood chips, sod and hard wearing ground cover work well. metal fencing / predator control: The type of fencing depends on what the most likely predators are in your area. Dogs, rats, raccoons, hawks and coyotes are the most prevalent in city neighborhoods, but others include fox, mink, opossum, bobcats, snakes, weasels, ferrets, fisher and marten. Its best to build the strongest deterrents possible. Chain link panels or welded or woven fencing on a sturdy frame reinforced at the bottom with small mesh metal wire that prevents predators from tunneling under the fence will discourage most intruders. Regular inspection is key to security. gate: A gate is needed for easy human access. cover: Pen should be covered to keep birds in and predators out. The type of covering needed will depend on the type of predators. Covering part of the pen with a roof such as corrugated fiberglass can provide shade and rain shelter. windbreak: Providing a wind and snow break will give the birds a protected area to be outdoors even in winter. shade: Shade must be available and can be provided by vegetation or strategically placed materials. dustbath: Taking a dust bath is the closest thing to heaven for a chicken. They derive pleasure and contentment by bathing in the sun and in loose dry soil depressions in the dirt which cleans their feathers and rids them of parasites. Birds will usually dig their own hole for dust baths. Keep the soil in the dust bath loose and add play sand if it is a heavy clay soil. Adding a little poultry dust, diatomaceous earth or wood ash increases the effectiveness of parasite control. Large heavy rubber feed buckets filled with play sand are a welcome addition to the indoor coop in the winter. enrichment furnishings: There is nothing sadder than a barren pen when compared to the rich jungle environment chickens evolved in. Lots of large branches, stumps or platforms provide places to go and things to do and look natural and attractive in the pen. Include bushes, boxes or other objects to sit in or hide behind. Plant kale or other safe, edible vegetation around the outside of the pen for forage. Overcrowding, boredom and barren pens are the most common cause of behavior problems. RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD: The largerfenced area like a backyard that provides ample space for safe exercise, forage, sunlight earth and vegetation that is regularly available to the birds when supervised. For regular exercise, 174 sq, ft per bird (an area about 10 ft. x 17 ft per bird) is required. 4 birds will need access to a 40 ft. x 70 ft. fenced area in the yard. If there is no access to a larger Range/ exercise yard, 16 sq. ft. of floor space minimum per bird (an area 4 ft. x 4 ft per bird) in the pen must be provided. fencing: 6 ft privacy fencing prevents or to discourage uninvited human and animal visitors. and promotes the safety and security of the birds and neighbors. nontoxic plants: Chickens are inquisitive and voracious eaters of vegetation and many ornamental garden plants can be toxic to them . Learn which of your plants might be harmful and fence them off or better yet replace them with safe and nutritious plants. security: Chickens are susceptible to theft, vandalism and predators and need to be securely shut in the coop at night. Security cameras, lights and baby monitors are also highly recommended deterrents. PROVIDING GOOD CARE FOOD / WATER Fresh food and water are required daily and should be available at all times. Hay, grain and prepared feed should be fresh- less than one year old and free of mold, insects or other contaminants. Daily httl27//WWW.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescueI Page 6 215110 intake should include: 60 % nutritionally balanced prepared feed appropriate for age of bird, 20% scratch (cracked corn, oats, black oil sunflower seeds, milo, barley) 20% fresh (nutritious foods and table scraps- Caution toxic: onion, avocados, chocolate) Supplements: oyster shell or limestone for calcium, granite grit for digestion, mineral salt or ground salt licks. Chickens drink 1 -2 cups of water a day. Feed should be stored in rodent proof containers in a cool dry area inaccessible to animals. Stored feedbags should be rotated to ensure that feed is always fresh. Food that is uneaten or spilled should be removed from animal enclosures daily. SOCIAL NEEDS Temperament and social structures of animals should be taken into account, and separate areas provided for incompatible birds. VET CARE Locate a veterinary clinic nearby that will see chickens before one is needed. preferably one that specializes in avian care. Chickens are welcome in increasing numbers of city clinics. Check vet backgrounds at http: // www. vetmed .state.mn.us /Default.aspx ?tabid =803 Have an isolation area or roomy carrier and heating pad for sick or injured birds. Critical /emergency first aid supplies should be kept including roll gauze, gauze pads, tape, vet wrap, blood stop powder, antibiotic ointment, antibacterial scrub and solution, and bandage scissors. SANITATION- Manure and wet bedding should be removed from coop and animal feeding and lounging areas daily. Thorough, complete cleaning of walls and perches, removal of all bedding, and disinfecting of coop and furnishings should be done at least once a year. Keeping shelter areas clean and dry will help prevent bacteria, fungi, insects, rodents, etc. Rodent levels will be minimized by keeping all feed in rodent proof containers and removing spilled or uneaten food promptly. Litter can be double bagged and disposed of as solid waste or composted but must be done in an area where chickens will not scratch for at least a year. Housing animals in spacious, clean and relatively dust free environments will keep them healthy and will minimize human exposure to infectious disease. Sources: Paltry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest, Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 Standards of Care for Chickens, Adapted from Standards of Care for Farmed Animals, The Association Of Sanctuaries (TAOS). Edited by Chicken Run Rescue. 6/2008, revised 4/7/09 Poultry Housing Considerations for Low Input Small Scale Producers, David Sullenberger, TimeWarrior Farm Chronicle Special Reports, Revision E, Fall, 2003 Building Chicken Coops: Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin A -224, Gail Damerow, 1999 Chicken Health Handbook, Gail Damerow, 1994 http: // www. brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 7 2/5/10 REQUIREMENTS FOR KEEPING CHICKENS The Permit for keeping chickens and other domestic fowl is contingent on your meeting responsibilities to your neighbors and the birds. Our department so often sees animals in inappropriate settings. Before going further, please read the enclosed CHICKEN CARE SHEET. Consider the commitment needed with regard to the lifespan, cost, time, space , location, and other consequences of caring for chickens. Next, consider the kind of impact they may have on your neighborhood. You must provide sufficient control so that their presence will not disturb neighbors with property damage, activity, noise, odor or trespass. You must keep your property clean and maintained in a manner that prevents insect and rodent infestations. Finally, consider the birds themselves. Are you willing to assume a longterm commitment to them? They must be provided with food, water shelter and veterinary care. They also need kindness and personal attention. COOP: The house, closed structure or enclosed room which provides shelter from cold, heat wind, rain, snow and predotors for protected roosting, nesting, feeding and watering space. size: 4 sq. feet interior floor space minimum per bird (an area 2 ft. x 2 ft, per bird). access to electricity floor: wood- 1 ft. off the ground, insulated / sealed or concrete bedding: clean, absorbent, nontoxic, biodegradable and replaceable material walls: varnished, treated or painted draft free double walls 11/2 inch insulation roof: will not collect / hold heat, min. 1 -1/2 inch insulation, insulating tar paper, inclined, vents doors: l human -size, 1 bird door 0 -2 ft. high, stable ramp, secure latch windows: 1 square foot of window per 10 square foot of floor space roosts: 11/2 diameter or greater, 18" from wall, 2 -3 feet off the floor. climate control: heater, fan, ventilation to maintain temperature 32° min. -85° max. F light: full spectrum, windows and /or skylights, incandescent light or other to follow normal seasonal light cycles. feeders/ waterers: non corrosive, clean, size and number sufficient, accessible for all birds nestboxes- 1 per 3 hens, bedding PEN: The fenced area surrounding the coop that provides secure access to exercise, sunlight earth and vegetation and is freely available to the birds when they are unsupervised. It is constructed to prevent the bird's escape and prevents entry by intruders /predators. size: 10 sq. ft of floor space minimum per bird (an area 3 ft. x 3.3 ft per bird) substrate: well drained area; clean, nontoxic, biodegradable and replaceable matter metal fencing and gate / predator control: sufficient to keep birds in /predators out cover: sufficient to keep birds in /predators out windbreak, shade, dustbath, enrichment furnishings (ie. branches, stumps or platforms bushes, boxes) RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD: The larger fenced area like o backyard that provides ample space for safe exercise, forage, sunlight, earth and vegetation that is regularly available to the birds when supervised. size: 174 sq. ft per bird (an area about 10 ft. x 17 ft per bird) If no access to a larger Range/ Exercise Yard, pen must provide 16 sq. ft. of floor space minimum per bird (an area 4 ft. x 4 ft per bird) fencing: 6 ft privacy fencing FOOD / WATER: Fresh food and water daily, calcium supplement, grit, stored in rodent proof containers, uneaten / spilled removed daily. SOCIAL: separate areas provided for incompatible birds. VET CARE: designated veterinary clinic, isolation area SANITATION- manure /wet bedding removed daily; clean/ disinfect coop and furnishings annually. Soiled litter double bagged for solid waste or composted in an area inaccessible to chickens for at least a year. htto7 / /www brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 8 2/5/10 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MUNICIPAL REGULATION OF URBAN CHICKENS For distribution to public and permit applicants BASIC CHICKEN CARE INSTRUCTIONS (pages 2 -8) REQUIREMENTS FOR KEEPING CHICKENS (page 9) Mary Britton Clouse Chicken Run Rescue 2010 Endorsed by Chicken Run Rescue Eastem Shore Sanctuary and Education Center Farm Sanctuary The Humane Society of the United States Sunnyskies Bird and Animal Sanctuary United Poultry Concerns Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary http://www.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 1 2/15/101 BASIC CHICKEN CARE INSTRUCTIONS CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE ACQUIRING A CHICKEN Lifespan - Chickens can live as long as a dog or cat— up to 14 years or longer. - Egg laying for a hen generally starts at 6 months old, peaks at 18 months and declines with age. Cost - Start -Up costs for coop, maintenance, tools, cleaning equipment, heating / cooling appliances, dishes, nets, food storage, scale, fencing, security locks, lighting, motion detectors, monitors, cameras, permit application ($2- 3,000) - Annual supplies per bird for food, bedding, nutritional supplements, hygiene supplies, permit fee, utilities ($300) - Vet care per bird per service (office exam $66, fecal test $28, plus other services as needed for illness or injury). Are you able to provide the birds with proper veterinary care needed? Time - Average 1 hour per bird per day minimum for cleaning, parasite control, grooming, physical exam, travel time to purchase supplies, construction, repair, medication, feeding, supervise free time out of pen. - Chickens need to be tended to twice daily. Will you have a person ready to substitute for you when you have reason to be absent? Space At least a 6 ft x 12ft x 6 ft high space in a yard is needed for a coop and pen for 4 birds, in addition to a largerfenced area for regular exercise. Location Coop and pen should be located in an area that provides shade, direct sunlight, good drainage and protection from prevailing winds and will not present a problem to neighbors. Uninvited guests Chickens will attract bird -mites and lice, mice, yard birds, squirrels, raccoons, dogs, coyotes, fox, mink, opossum, rats, owls, bobcats, hawks, snakes, weasels, ferrets, fishers, martens and humans. ACQUIRING A CHICKEN: ADOPTION OR PURCHASE /BREEDING? The recent interest in having chickens has overwhelmed animal rescue organizations with inquiries from people wanting to give up unwanted chickens. As with all other animals surrendered to shelters, rescue organizations cannot help them all. There are never enough homes for displaced animals, so adoption of birds who need homes is always the kindest choice. instead of purchasing from a breeder or hatchery. Adoption- By adopting from a rescue organization or a private individual, you can know what to expect with regard to the bird's health, sex, behavior and personality. Reputable rescue organizations can provide advice on selecting the right bird and care information, and they generally have a generous return policy to insure that bird will be happy, compatible and well cared for. Purchase /breeding -The identification of the sex of chicks by feed stores, breeders and hatcheries is often wrong and not apparent until the bird is 6 months old. 50% of the chicks hatched are roosters who are killed or otherwise discarded of as waste. Newborn chicks shipped through the postal service are deprived of their mothers, warmth and food. The younger the birds, the more fragile and difficult they are to care for http://www.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 2 2/15/102 HEALTHY BIRD CHECKLIST Eyes: clear, clean, wide open, alert Face/ comb / wattle: clean, soft, blemish free, healthy deep red indicating good blood supply, (some faces are not red) Posture: head erect, good balance, stands or perches on both feet on extended legs, good grip on perch, facing activity Odor: none or slightly fermented hay Beak/ nostrils: clean, uniform, shiny and solid Legs / feet: clean, shiny, uniform scales and nails; foot bottom soft and blemish -free; legs and toes straight and functional Feathers; clean, bright, shiny, smooth or fluffy; free of mites or lice Wings: held close to body, symmetrical, smooth movement in joints when flexed, flight feathers intact Skin: clean, soft, pale pink and translucent (some breeds have bare red patches at shoulders and keel), free of mites or lice Droppings: 70% odorless green/ white, firm, 30% stinky brown pasty (cecal), watery if stressed Keel (sternum): Straight, good muscle mass on either side, lump free Crop (on bird's right side of lower neck): full, contents of consumed food easily palpated Vent: petite, clean, moist, soft, pliant Respiration: 12 -37 per min., inhalation louder and shorter than exhalation, minimal chest movement, closed beak NUMBER OF BIRDS Calculating available space, time, and cost (see above) will dictate how many birds can be properly cared for: Coop: 4 sq. feet of floor space minimum per bird forthe interior (an area 2 ft x 2 ft per bird) Pen: 10 sq. ft of floor space minimum per bird (an area 3 ft x 3.3 ft per bird) Range/ exercise yard: 174 sq. ft per bird (an area about 10 ft. x 17 ft per bird) A single chicken is a sad chicken. Plan to have at least 2— they are flock animals and need the companionship of other chickens. Generally, 3 -5 compatible chickens can be well maintained in a typical city environment. Individual birds' sex, ages and temperaments can affect compatibility. Over crowding chickens is the most common mistake. Hens should outnumber roosters. Sometimes single birds can thrive with a human friend if they have special needs. Roosters, single or in pairs, are very sociable and can make terrific companions if handled gently and often. HANDLING & RESTRAINT Never handle a chicken by wings, feet or legs. Herd bird to corner using slow deliberate movement. (Fast= predator, slow = less threat.) Place hands overtop part of wings (shoulders) and hold securely but do not squeeze. Pick up and hold under arm to keep wings in place. Support feet with other hand if bird will tolerate. To restrain for transport or examination, drape a towel over shoulders cape -style and wrap around body. TRANSPORTATION Consider travel time and avoid extreme weather conditions. Heat exhaustion can develop quickly, and interior car temps can reach fatal point 10 minutes. Medium- sized, hard pet carriers work well for security, safety, stress. Line with a towel, shredded paper or straw. Food is a good stress reducer. Offer wet food like greens or cucumber for long trips. ARRIVAL If other birds are already present, a 2 -week quarantine in a separate area is recommended to watch for http:// www. brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 3 2/15/103 signs of illness and parasites. Avoid noisy, high - traffic areas, and allow the bird to acclimate before introducing to other birds, animals and family. PROVIDING A GOOD HOME NATURAL HISTORY It is important to understand how chickens live in the wild and to provide them with an environment that meets those instinctive physical and psychological needs as closely as possible. Chickens are all descended from Tropical Jungle Fowl and are adapted to living in a natural habitat that is spacious, richly vegetated, diverse and warm. This presents a particular challenge in a small, urban setting in a cold climate like Minnesota. Flocks have a highly developed social structure and members depend on one another for companionship and security. Naturalists have observed that they can recognize and remember 180 other individual flock members. They are ground - dwelling birds. Most are capable of low flight in short distances; smaller birds can fly higher and farther. In the wild, they roost in trees at dusk before they sleep or to escape predators. They hide their nests in cavities in the ground. The majority of their waking hours are spent active, widely ranging, grazing and foraging for food— plants, bugs and occasionally small rodents. In their natural state, they typically travel 1/2 mile from their roost each day. In the wild, they are never over crowded; if the population becomes too dense, members will break off into subgroups and spread out. They move on from one area to another, which allows food sources to regenerate and prevents their waste from concentrating in one place so it can decompose without health risk to the flock. Roosters alert the flock to danger, find food and call the hens to it and stand guard as they eat. They select and build nests and will even participate in caring for the young. They also act as peace keepers to intervene in disputes that can develop between flock members. Roosters will start to crow and display courting behaviors at about 6 months of age. It is essential to gently handle a rooster on a daily basis to establish that you are the flock leader (Alpha) and maintain a well - socialized companion. The hens spend their time scratching for food, dust bathing, preening, playing and napping. Hens begin to lay eggs at about 6 months of age. Hens in the wild produce only a few clutches of eggs a yearfor the sole purpose of reproduction. Domesticated hens have been bred to lay one egg a day, but by 18 months of age, egg - laying frequency generally diminishes, and many adult or senior hens stop laying altogether. Chickens are sociable, cheerful and intelligent creatures who can form lifelong bonds with each other and other species including humans, dogs and cats. Because of their keen intelligence and instinctive physical activity, they need a stimulating environment that mimics as much as possible the rich and diverse world nature designed them to enjoy. COOP, PEN, RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD "Housing and infrastructure. The primary purpose of poultry housing is to protect flocks against adverse weather and predators (coyote, fox, stray dogs, raccoons and raptors). Weather is of critical concern in the Upper Midwest, where summers can be extremely hot and winters bitterly cold. Housing must provide shade from sun and coverfrom rain. It must be able to withstand high winds and snow loads if it is to be used for year -round operation. These basic housing considerations apply to all poultry." - Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest, Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 http7//www.brittonclouse.com/Chickenrunrescue/ Page 4 2/15/104 COOP: The house, closed structure or enclosed room which provides shelter from cold, heat, wind, rain, snow and predators for protected roosting, nesting, feeding and watering space. Construction & Materials — Coops can be purchased ready made or in kits, constructed within an existing structure or built from scratch. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from snow, wind, etc. NOTE: rabbit hutches, plastic igloos, dog houses and such are not appropriate stru ctu res. Required features: Size: 4 sq. feet of floor space minimum is required per bird for the interior (an area 2 ft x 2 ft per bird). So, four birds will need a coop with an inside floor space of at least 4 ft x 4 ft, not including nest boxes. Outside dimensions should be about 5 ft x 5 ft x 6 ft high. Overcrowding is the most common cause of behavior problems, injury and disease. Coops should be high enough for a human to stand up comfortably for cleaning, maintenance and egg collection. It also allows for additional roosting. Temperament and social structures should be taken into account, and partitions should be available for birds who are sick, injured or lower in the pecking order. Access to electricity: This is required in free standing structures. Floor: The floor should not collect and hold moisture, should be easyto clean, should retain heat in cold weather and should exclude rodents /predators. A dirt floor draws heat away and is not easy to clean or to rodent /predator - proof. A wood floor is adequate, provided it is at least a foot off the ground, insulated and sealed properly— but it is difficult to sanitize because it is porous. A concrete floor is ideal since it discourages rodents /predators and is easy to sanitize. Regardless of the floortype, bedding strewn on the surface is needed is to absorb moist fecal matter and facilitate cleaning. Leaves orwood shavings work best and can be composted or easily bagged and disposed of as solid waste. Walls- Materials that are resistant to moisture and mold and easily cleaned are best. Chemically treated materials should be nontoxic. A good compound with anti fungal agents is good for humid areas. Clear varnish is also good. Everything should be treated or painted before it is assembled. Wooden structures should be draftfree and built with double walls that have at least 11/2 inch insulation layer between them. Roof: The coop roof should be made of a material that will not collect and hold heat and should be built with double walls that have at least 11/2 inch insulated layer between them. The roof surface should be covered with an insulating tar paper to protect it from heavy rains. The roof should be slightly inclined, to allow water to run off. An overhang at the front wall will protect from downpours. A few small openings along the eaves allow moisture to escape and provide fresh air. Doors: One human -sized door is needed for daily access. Doors for chickens should be just large enough for the largest bird and can be positioned anywhere from ground level to about 2 feet high with a stable ramp with cleats. Chickens are ground dwellers, not parrots —small doors at heights greater than 3 feet with flimsy, unstable ladders are not appropriate. Doors must be able to be secured against predators at night. Windows: Chickens love windows and need natural light. Double glaze for warmth. Cover with 1/2" metal screen so they can be opened for ventilation in hot weather. Allow one square foot of window for each 10 square feet of floor space. Roosts: Lumber or branches can be used. They should be strong enough and mounted securely enough to hold all birds. The surface should be rough forgood grip with no splinters or sharp edges. For medium sized birds, 2" or 4" flat or 11/2" diameter is best for foot comfort. The longer the roost, the better it will prevent competition. They should be set 18" from the wall, 2 -3 feet off the floor. If mounted higher, rung steps are needed, spaced 8 -12 inches apart. The addition of a dropping board underneath and an elevated roost will collect droppings and keep floor space below clean and inhabitable. Climate: Shelters should be kept at a comfortable temperature for the animals. According to the Minn. Dept. of Agriculture, "Minimum Temperature 55 °(F) , maximum temperature 70° (F):' ([bid.) The coop should be heated to maintain a temperature above 32° F during the coldest part of the winter and cooled below 85 F in the hottest part of the summer. httn: / /www.brittonclouse.com /chicken run rescue/ Page 5 2/15/105 Below 32 F, birds are uncomfortable and cannot maintain body temperature. Below 15 ° F, frostbite begins, and hypothermia increases. Oil- or water -filled safety heaters (i.e. brands Pelonis, DeLonghi, Honeywell) are completely closed, sealed systems that run on electricity. The oil is heated from within and the heat is radiant, so there are no exposed heating elements to create dangerous problems even if they tip over. Heat lamps should only be used with extreme caution and should be firmly attached at least 3 feet from animals and far from any flammable item, especially dry straw or bedding. Smoke alarms are highly recommended. Extra bedding should be available to keep animals warm and comfortable in cold seasons. Between 75° and 85° F, panting and dehydration begin; above 85 F, heat stress and danger of heat prostration increases. Ventilation: Doors, windows and vents near the ceiling supply oxygen, remove heat from breathing, remove moisture from breath and droppings, remove harmful gasses and dust particles, and dilute disease - causing, airborne organisms. Fans should be provided for hottest weather. Light: Natural light from windows and /or skylights are required. Can be supplemented with full spectrum incandescent light to follow normal seasonal light cycles and for cleaning and maintenance. The minimum light intensity you should provide should be enough to clearly see the hens feed when standing overthe feeder. Feeders: Food receptacles should be made of non - corrosive material that is easily cleaned, minimizes spillage, prevents contamination with droppings and keeps food dry. The containers should be large enough for all the birds to comfortably eat at once or numerous enough to prevent competition or intimidation. Large, heavy, rubber feed buckets work nicely. Hanging dishes or feeders work as well and should be hung at about the level of the bird's back. If dishes are outside the coop, they should be set under an overhang to keep them dry when it rains. Waterers: Water receptacles should be made of non - corrosive material that can be cleaned and disinfected with a solution of chlorine bleach, prevent contamination with droppings and is spill and leak proof. The containers should be large enough for all the birds to comfortably drink at once and hold enough waterfor all birds for an entire day. They should be slightly positioned higherthan the feeder or far enough away to prevent contamination with food. Nestboxes- One nest box is needed for every 3 hens. A 12 "W x 12 "D x 14 "H box is most versatile. Chickens prefer wooden nest boxes with covered opening for privacy placed on or as low to the floor as possible. If set higher, they require a perch in front of the opening. They should be filled with 2 -4 inches of straw, litter, or grass. They prefer to nest in the southeast corner of the structure whenever possible. PEN: The pen is o fenced area surrounding the coop that provides secure access to exercise, sunlight, earth and vegetation and is freely available to the birds when they are unsupervised. It is constructed to prevent the birds' escape and prevents entry by intruders /predators. Construction & Materials — Kennel pens can be purchased ready -made or in kits, or built from scratch. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from snow, wind, etc. Temperament and social structures of flock should be taken into account, and partitions should be available for birds who are sick, injured or lower in the pecking order. Required features: Size: 10 sq. feet of floor space (an area of 3 ft x 3.3 ft) minimum per bird is required, so 4 birds will need floor space of at least 6 feet x 7 feet. If the coop is adjacent to the pen, at least a 6 x 12 foot space in a yard is needed. If the coop is elevated 2 feet so the chickens can use the space underneath, the coop and pen can occupy some, but not all, of the same footprint. Having most of the pen in deep shade all of the time is conducive to unhealthy bacterial and fungal development. The pen should be high enough for you to stand up comfortably for cleaning, maintenance, capture and also to allow for additional roosting. Substrate: Choose a well- drained area. Substrate material for the pen should be clean, nontoxic, biodegradable, readily available, inexpensive and replaceable. Since it will become compacted from little feet and contaminated by concentrated droppings and parasites, it will need to be raked out and http7//www.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 6 2/15/106 replaced frequently to reduce odor and fly activity. Play -sand, leaves, municipal wood chips, sod and hard - wearing ground cover work well. Metal fencing / predator control: The type of fencing depends on what the most likely predators are in your area. Dogs, rats, raccoons, hawks and coyotes are the most prevalent in city neighborhoods, but others include fox, mink, opossum, bobcats, snakes, weasels, ferrets, fisher and marten. It's best to build the strongest deterrents possible. Chain -link panels or welded or woven fencing on a sturdy frame, reinforced at the bottom with small -mesh metal wire that prevents predators from tunneling under the fence will discourage most intruders. Regular inspection is the key to security. Gate: A gate is needed for easy human access. Cover: The pen should be covered to keep birds in and predators out. The type of covering needed will depend on the type of predators. Covering part of the pen with a roof such as corrugated fiberglass can provide shade and rain shelter. Windbreak: Providing a wind and snow break will give the birds a protected area to be outdoors even in winter. Shade: Shade must be available and can be provided by vegetation or strategically placed materials. Dust bath: Taking a dust bath is the closest thing to heaven for a chicken. They derive pleasure and contentment by bathing in the sun and in loose, dry soil depressions in the dirt, which cleans their feathers and rids them of parasites. Birds will usually dig their own hole for dust baths. Keep the soil in the dust bath loose, and add play -sand if it is a heavy clay soil. Adding a little poultry dust, diatomaceous earth or wood ash increases the effectiveness of parasite control. Large, heavy rubber feed buckets filled with play -sand are a welcome addition to the indoor coop in the winter. Enrichment furnishings: There is nothing sadder than a barren pen, when compared to the rich jungle environment chickens evolved in. Lots of large branches, stumps or platforms provide places to go and things to do, and they look natural and attractive in the pen. Include bushes, boxes or other objects to sit in or hide behind. Plant kale or other safe, edible vegetation around the outside of the pen forforage. Overcrowding, boredom and barren pens are the most common causes of behavioral problems. RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD: The larger fenced area like a backyard that provides ample space for safe exercise, forage, sunlight earth and vegetation that is regularly available to the birds when supervised. For regular exercise, 174 sq. ft per bird (an area about 10 ft x 17 ft per bird) is required. Four birds will need access to a 40 ft x 70 ft fenced area in the yard. If there is no access to a larger range/ exercise yard, 16 sq. feet of floor space minimum per bird (an area 4 ft x 4 ft per bird) in the pen must be provided. Fencing: 6 feet of privacy fencing prevents and discourages uninvited human and animal visitors. It also promotes the safety and security of the birds and neighbors. Nontoxic plants: Chickens are inquisitive and voracious eaters of vegetation and many ornamental garden plants can be toxic to them. Learn which of your plants might be harmful and fence them off or better yet replace them with safe and nutritious plants. Security: Chickens are susceptible to theft, vandalism and predators and need to be securely shut in the coop at night. Security cameras, lights and baby monitors are also highly recommended deterrents. PROVIDING GOOD CARE FOOD / WATER Fresh food and water are required daily and should be available at all times. Hay, grain and prepared feed should be fresh —less than one year old and free of mold, insects or other contaminants. Daily intake should include: 60 % nutritionally balanced, prepared feed appropriate for the age of bird, 20% scratch (cracked corn, oats, black oil sunflower seeds, milo, barley) 20% fresh (nutritious foods and table scraps— caution, toxic: onion, avocados, chocolate). Supplements: oyster shell or limestone for calcium, granite grit for digestion, mineral salt or ground salt licks. Chickens drink 1 -2 cups of water a day. http:// www. brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue/ Page 7 2/15/107 Feed should be stored inside rodent -proof containers in a cool, dry area inaccessible to animals. Stared feedbags should be rotated to ensure that feed is always fresh. Food that is uneaten or spilled should be removed from animal enclosures daily. SOCIAL NEEDS Temperament and social structures of animals should be taken into account, and separate areas should be provided for incompatible birds. VET CARE Locate a veterinary clinic nearby that will see chickens before one is needed — preferably one that specializes in avian care. Chickens are welcome in increasing numbers of city clinics. Check vet backgrounds at htto•// wwwvetmed .state.mn.us /Default.asox ?tabid =803 Have an isolation area or roomy carrier and heating pad for sick or injured birds. Critical /emergency first aid supplies should be kept, including roll gauze, gauze pads, tape, vet wrap, blood -stop powder, antibiotic ointment, antibacterial scrub and solution, and bandage scissors. SANITATION Manure and wet bedding should be removed from the coop and animal feeding and lounging areas daily. Thorough, complete cleaning of walls and perches, removal of all bedding, and disinfecting of the coop and furnishings should be done at least once a year. Keeping shelter areas clean and dry will help prevent bacteria, fungi, insects, rodents, etc. Rodent levels will be minimized by keeping all feed in rodent -proof containers and removing spilled or uneaten food promptly. Litter can be double bagged and disposed of as solid waste or composted, but composting must be done in an area where chickens will not scratch for at least a year. Housing animals in spacious, clean and relatively dust -free environments will keep them healthy and will minimize human exposure to infectious disease. Sources: Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest, Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 Standards of Care for Chickens, Adapted from Standards of Care for Farmed Animals, The Association Of Sanctuaries (TAOS). Edited by Chicken Run Rescue. 6/2008, revised 4/7/09 Poultry Housing Considerations for Low Input Small Scale Producers, David Sullenberger, TimeWanior Farm Chronicle Special Reports, Revision E, fall 2003 Building Chicken Coops: Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin A -224, Gail Damerow, 1999 Chicken Health Handbook, Gail Damerow, 1994 http7/fwww.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 8 2/15/108 REQUIREMENTS FOR KEEPING CHICKENS The Permit for keeping chickens and other domestic fowl is contingent on your meeting responsibilities to your neighbors and the birds. Our department so often sees animals in inappropriate settings. Before going further, please read the enclosed CHICKEN CARE SHEET. Consider the commitment needed with regard to the lifespan, cost, time, space, location, and other consequences of caring for chickens. Next, consider the kind of impactthey may have on your neighborhood. You must provide sufficient control so that their presence will not disturb neighbors with property damage, activity, noise, odor or trespass. You must keep your property clean and maintained in a manner that prevents insect and rodent infestations. Finally, consider the birds themselves. Are you willing to assume a long term commitment to them? They must be provided with food, water shelter and veterinary care. They also need kindness and personal attention. COOP: The house, closed structure or enclosed room which provides shelter from cold, heat wind, rain, snow and predators for protected roosting, nesting, feeding and watering space. size: 4 sq. feet interior floor space minimum per bird (an area 2 ft. x 2 ft. per bird). access to electricity floor: wood - 1 ft. off the ground, insulated / sealed or concrete bedding: clean, absorbent, nontoxic, biodegradable and replaceable material walls: varnished, treated or painted draft free double walls 11/2 inch insulation roof: will not collect / hold heat, min. 1-1/2 inch insulation, insulating tar paper, inclined, vents doors: 1 human -size, 1 bird door 0-2 ft. high, stable ramp, secure latch windows: 1 square foot of window per 10 square foot of floor space roosts: 11/2 diameter or greater, 18" from wall, 2 -3 feet off the floor. climate control: heater, fan, ventilation to maintain temperature 32° min.- 85° max. F light: full spectrum, windows and /or skylights, incandescent light or other to follow normal seasonal light cycles. feeders/ waterers: non corrosive, clean, size and number sufficient, accessible for all birds nestboxes- 1 per 3 hens, bedding PEN: The fenced area surrounding the coop that provides secure access to exercise, sunlight, earth and vegetation and is freely available to the birds when they are unsupervised. It is constructed to prevent the bird's escape and prevents entry by intruders /predators. size: 10 sq. ft of floor space minimum per bird (an area 3 ft. x 3.3 ft per bird) substrate: well drained area; clean, nontoxic, biodegradable and replaceable matter metal fencing and gate / predator control: sufficient to keep birds in /predators out cover: sufficient to keep birds in /predators out windbreak, shade, dustbath, enrichment furnishings lie. branches, stumps or platforms bushes, boxes) RANGE/ EXERCISE YARD: The largerfenced area like a backyard that provides ample space far safe exercise, forage, sunlight earth and vegetation that is regularly available to the birds when supervised. size: 174 sq. ft per bird (an area about 10 ft. x 17 ft per bird) If no access to a larger Range/ Exercise Yard, pen must provide 16 sq. ft. of floor space minimum per bird (an area 4 ft. x 4 ft per bird) fencing: 6 ft privacy fencing FOOD / WATER: Fresh food and water daily, calcium supplement, grit, stored in rodent proof containers, uneaten /spilled removed daily. SOCIAL: separate areas provided for incompatible birds. VET CARE: designated veterinary clinic, isolation area SANITATION- manure /wet bedding removed daily; clean / disinfect coop and furnishings annually. Soiled litter double bagged for solid waste orcomposted in an area inaccessible to chickens for at least a year. http7llwww.brittonclouse.com/chickenrunrescue/ Page 9 2/15/109 Chicken Run Rescue Page 1 of 4 t"VORGAtivATIon jnfo Chicken Run Rescue Our Adoptable Pet List Click here to see our Happy Tails! People who want to help individual chickens can do so by adopting them as companions. We can help them all by adopting a plant based diet. About Chicken Run Rescue: Every year, domestic fowl, mostly chickens, are impounded by Minneapolis Animal Control (MAC) and local humane societies. These birds are victims of neglect, abuse and abandonment, sometimes used as a source of eggs or intended for slaughter, fighting or ritual sacrifice. Some are the discarded outcome of "nature lessons" for children or after a hobby that no longer holds interest. After their release from MAC, Chicken Run provides the birds with temporary shelter and vet care, locates and screens adopters and transports the birds to their new homes within 90 miles of Minneapolis /St. Paul vicinity. There is a special need for rooster homes. For more information about Chicken Run Rescue visit our main website by clicking: Chicken Run Rescue Subscribe to our Adoption Chronicles email newsletter Help support Chicken Run Rescue by purchasing our 2011 Chicken Run Rescue Photo Contest Calendar which is AVAILABLE NOW! Buy lots- make great New Years gifts! Adopting a friend How to Adopt http://www.petfinder.com/shelters/chicicenrunrescue.html 4/16/2013 Chicken Run Rescue Page 2 of 4 Reasons To Adopt Chickens As Companion Animals: Chickens are highly intelligent, gentle, vivacious individuals who form strong lifelong emotional bonds with each other as well as other species. They are warm and silky and lovely to hold. They are primarily ground dwelling birds who are very home and routine centered and can thrive in a space the size of a normal urban backyard and home. They can coexist happily with compatible dogs and cats and have similar life spans. Adopting a chicken will increase compassion and reduce violence in the world. They are the most unjustly treated land animals on the planet. Each year in the US, over 10 billion chickens suffer from intense confinement, cruel handling and painful terrifying deaths. Although they represent over 95% of the animals raised for agricultural and other purposes, they are excluded from protection of anticruelty laws, humane slaughter laws and laws that regulate experimentation. Things to Consider Before Getting Chickens Check out the 2011 Chicken Run Rescue Photo Contest Calendar AVAILABLE NOW! Chicken Run Rescue Adoption Terms: . commitment for the life of the bird. Chickens can live 14 years and so require the same committment as dogs and cats. • prohibit slaughter, breeding, fighting or exhibit • limit adoption only as a companion animal not a food animal (not to produce eggs for profit or breeding purposes) . guarantee to provide proper care including food, water shelter, fresh air, exercise, companionship with other same species animals and veterinary care as for any other companion animal • allow inquiries about the care of this animal at any time • prohibit birds to be given away or sold without consent of CRR • comply with the laws and ordinances enforced in the state and municipality • certify that no one in the household/property where the animal will reside has been charged with or convicted of animal abuse in any state. For adoption information contact: chickenrunrescuegeomcast.net HOW CAN I ADOPT CHICKENS IN MY REGION? We limit adoptions to a 90 mile radius of the Minneapolis /St. Paul area so we can deliver http: / /www.petfinder.com /shelters /chickenrunrescue.html 4/16/2013 Chicken Run Rescue the birds and see their new homes. Page 3 of 4 Here are some ways to adopt chickens without lining the pockets of the hatcheries or people who breed and dump chickens. Read http://www.chickenrunrescue.org/#hatcheries Visit the Petfinders.org site often (http: / /www.petfinder.com). Select "chickensi in animal category and enter your zip code and it will bring up any available near you. Also try calling your local humane societies, and animal control agencies and ask that they contact you when they pick up strays. Also let your local animal rights groups know you would like to help a chicken in need. They will be glad for the information. Another option is to contact a local organic egg producer (find out where your local co- op buys them). It is a sad fact that even "free range" hens are disposed of after they are only 18 months old and their productivity drops. They meet the same fate as the unwanted chicks j at hatcheries. There are also listings of farm animals available for adoption including chickens from all over the country. bitp://www.fannanimalshelters.org/placementbb.htm You can also contact the following sanctuary associations for advice: American Sanctuary Association http://www.asaanimalsanctuaries.org Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries http://sanctLiMfederation.org/contact.php For information on getting set up for your new feathered family read STANDARDS OF CARE FOR CHICKENS and the articles in CHICKEN CARE LINKS at http://www.chickenrunrescue.org Thanks for being willing to open your heart to a chicken, and thanks for not breeding or buying. There are never enough homes for displaced animals. http: / /www.petfinder.com /shelters /chickenrunrescue.html 4/16/2013 Chicken Run Rescue Good luck! Chicken Run Rescue Minneapolis, MN 55411 Email: chickenrunrescue(a,comcast.net Click here for a list of pets at this shelter Page 4 of 4 http: / /www.petfinder.com /shelters /chickenrunrescue.html 4/16/2013 [ Home ] [Information [ Shelters ] Search] D. STANDARDS OF CARE FOR CHICKENS STANDARDS OF CARE FOR CHICKENS Adapted from Standards of Care for Farmed Animals, The Association Of Sanctuaries (TAOS). Edited by Chicken Run Rescue. 6/2008, revised for MACC 4/7109 A. Care & Facilities 1. General a) Number of Birds — Capacity should be limited by shelter space, available space for exercise, number of animal caretakers and the financial capabilities. All of these issues should be taken into consideration before acquiring new animals. b) Handling & Restraint - Attempting to catch an unwilling animal in a large open area can be difficult or impossible. Training animals to go into a confined area by feeding grain or giving treats in this area daily— will make it much easier and less stressful on the animals to catch and restrain them when treatment or handling is necessary. Chickens should never be held upside down or tethered by their legs. They can be easily carried or restrained by cradling the animal and pinning the wings down with your hands, or a towel can be wrapped around the body. Care should be used to avoid pressure on the chest area of birds when restraining and handling as they use their pectoral muscles for breathing. c) Transportation - Chickens can be transported in enclosed kennels and airline carriers with either straw or towels for bedding. Care should be taken not to overcrowd animals when transporting and to minimize travel during the hottest portions of the day. Travel should be minimized or postponed during extreme hot or cold weather. Water and feed/hay should be provided for trips longer than a few hours. 2. Enclosures a) Construction & Materials — All shelters should take into account the weather conditions of the specific geographic area. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from snow, wind, etc. Fencing for chickens should be adequate to discourage and prevent predators. Access to electricity is required in free standing structures. "Housing and infrastructure. The primary purpose of poultry housing is to protect flocks against adverse weather and predators (coyote, fox, stray dogs, raccoons and raptors). Weather is of critical concern in the Upper Midwest, where summers can be extremely hot and winters bitterly cold. Housing must provide shade from sun and cover from rain. It must be able to withstand high winds and snow loads if it is to be used for year -round operation. These basic housing considerations apply to al poultry." "Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest ", Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 b) Size & number of animals per enclosure —A minimum of 4 square feet per bird Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6/09 should be provided for interior enclosures and 10 square feet per bird for outside pens. Animals should have access to shelters where there is enough space to fit all of the animals who will be using the shelter, without overcrowding. Temperament and social structures of animals should be taken into account, and separate fenced areas or stalls should be available for animals who are lower in the pecking order. There should be plenty of outdoor space to run and perform normal behaviors without causing crowding or aggression between animals. c) Substrate — Straw, grass hay, leaves or shavings can be used as substrate in shelter. Hay or straw used for bedding should be fresh and free of mold. Care should be taken when using shavings for birds, as they may eat them, causing crop impactions. All domestic fowl should have access to fenced outdoor areas with grass for foraging or hay where grass is not available. d) Furnishings — Chickens should have access to perches and nestboxes. There should be enough perches and nestboxes or nesting areas that animals do not have to fight over them. Bales of hay or straw should be available as perches. e) Access to shelter, shade, bathing, privacy - All chickens should have access to shelter and shade. Chickens should have areas for dustbathing. All birds should have private areas available in which to lay their eggs. f) Animal safety & security — There should be 6 ft. privacy fencing with locking gates to discourage uninvited human visitors for the animals' safety. Security cameras are also highly recommended deterrents. Chickens are susceptible to a number of predators — these animals should have predator proof enclosures where they are shut in at night. Very young or debilitated animals should be kept in predator proof enclosures. See NON - LETHAL PREDATOR CONTROL 3. Sanitation a) Maintenance & cleaning of enclosures and substrates - Manure and wet bedding should be removed from coop and animal feeding and lounging areas daily. Thorough, complete cleaning and removal of all bedding and disinfecting of coop and furnishings should be done on a regular basis as needed. b) Control of invasive, non - resident species including bacteria, fungi, insects, rodents, etc.- Keeping shelter areas clean and dry will help prevent many invasive species. Shelter and furnishings should be disinfected on a regular basis. Rodent levels will be minimized by keeping all feed in rodent proof containers and removing spilled or uneaten food promptly. 4. Climate a) Heating /cooling — Shelters should be kept at a comfortable temperature for the animals. "Minimum Temperature 55 0 (f) , maximum temperature 70 °(F)" - Poultry Housing Recommendations: Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest ", Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6/09 Minnesota Department of Agriculture, 2005 During hot weather fans should be made available to maintain a temperature under 80 degrees, especially for chickens who are especially susceptible to heat stress. . During cold weather, chickens (all descended from Tropical Jungle Fowl) are susceptible to frostbite. Oil or water filled safety heaters (i.e. brands Pelonis, Det-onghi, Honeywell) should be made available to maintain a minimum temperature above 32 degrees. Oil heaters (or water) are completely closed and sealed systems that run on electricity. The oil is heated from within and the heat is radiant so there are no exposed heating elements that create dangerous problems even if they tip over. Heat lamps, which should only be used with extreme caution, should be firmly attached and should be kept at least 3 feet from animals and far from any flammable item, especially dry straw or bedding. Extra bedding should be available to keep animals warm and comfortable in cold climates. Coop should be set up to protect animals from drafts. b) Ventilation — Shelters should have adequate ventilation and should be built with ridge vents, adequate windows, and /or doors that open fully to let fresh air into the shelter. Windows /doors should be opened and fans used to facilitate ventilation during warm weather. c) NaturaVartificial light — Natural light from windows and /or skylights should be provided in all shelters if possible. If not available, adequate full spectrum incandescent light should be installed and should be controlled to follow normal seasonal light cycles. 5. Food a) Nutritional & fluid requirements - Chickens and other fowl should be provided with fresh food and water daily. Chickens and other fowl can have chicken feed available at all times. b) Quality & variety - Hay, grain and feed should preferably be less than one year old and free of mold or other contaminants. Grain should be fresh and free of insects, mold, or other contaminants. Formulated crumble or pellets provides balanced nutrition to supplement limited foraging in an urban setting. A variety of fresh fruits and vegetables should be offered in addition to their commercial grain on a regular basis. c) Communal feeding/drinking & monitoring of individual intake- Groups of animals should be observed daily when feeding for possible aggressive behavior. Individuals who are subordinate and subject to intimidation may need to be separated for feeding. d) Food safety & hygiene— Feed should be stored in rodent proof containers in a cool dry area inaccessible to animals. Stored feedbags should be rotated to ensure that feed is always fresh. Food that is uneaten or spilled should be removed from animal enclosures daily. B. Enrichment 1. Social a) Pairs — Animals who arrive as bonded pairs, or who develop this relationship should be Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6109 kept together at all times, if possible. b) Social grouping - Domestic fowl have social structures which should be accommodated whenever possible. Animals should be allowed to form healthy social groups. This should be encouraged and respected when housing decisions are being made. c) Communal activities — Groups of fowl should be observed for possible aggressive or intimidating behavior to individuals in the group and housing /feeding/ enclosures should be adjusted accordingly. Communal activities such as feeding should be closely observed to ensure that all animals in the group have access to adequate food and water. 2. Environmental a) Habitat/enclosure provisions, complexity & variety — Habitat for domestic fowl should include grass areas with adequate shelter from weather conditions. The outdoor area should have areas of sun and shade. Plenty of space to prevent crowding and encourage natural behaviors should be available in the indoor and outdoor areas. b) Food, feeding & foraging — Chickens should have areas in which to forage and scratch for insects. c) Natural /artificial elements — Enclosures should include trees whenever possible. Branches, stumps or platforms for roosting can be offered to chickens. 3. Therapeutic a) Treatment plan for recovery from illness or injury — Animals who are being treated for illness or injury should be separated from the group when needed to facilitate treatment or when the illness is contagious or debilitating. b) treatment plan for abnormal behaviors - Individual animals with abnormal behaviors including aggression, antisocial traits, phobias, anxiety, self -injury or issues may need to be separated or reintroduced into another group which may better suit their needs. Attention and encouragement should be given to these animals to provide opportunities to improve behavior. C. Veterinary Medical Care - see CHICKEN CARE, PHYSICAL EXAM FOR CHICKENS 1. General a) Veterinary specialty & availability — A relationship should be established with a local avian veterinarian or one who is familiar with birds to treat problems that are specifically associated with domestic fowl. Some research and trial may be necessary to locate a compassionate veterinarian who is educated and sympathetic to the unique requirements of humanely treating domestic fowl, including using anesthesia for surgical procedures. Ideally the veterinarian will be located in close proximity to enable a quick response in case of emergency. see VET CLINICS FOR CHICKEN CARE MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL / WESTERN WISCONSIN VICINITY b) CriticaVemergency first aid- Critical /emergency first aid supplies should be kept Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6/09 stocked and in date including roll gauze, gauze pads, tape, vetwrap, blood stop powder, antibiotic ointment, antibacterial scrub and solution, and bandage scissors. d) Necropsy - It is very helpful to have a complete necropsy performed whenever possible on animals who have died or who have been euthanized. Useful information can often be obtained when a state lab or veterinarian does the necropsy, even if the cause of death is presumed 2. Quarantine & Isolation a) New Arrivals — New arrivals should be separated from resident animals in a designated isolation area. This area should be treated as quarantine. A complete physical exam should be done on the animal and treatment for any health issues should begin as soon as possible after arrival. New arrivals should remain in quarantine for a period of at least 7 days, to help ensure the animal is free from contagious disease. b) Testing - Prior to release from quarantine, animals should be tested for intemal and external parasites. Animals should also be tested for diseases that may be a concern for the individual species or for the geographical area of the sanctuary. c) Treatment - All animals should be treated for internal and external parasites and any detectable illness or disease before release from quarantine. d) Introduction — Once an animal's quarantine time period is up, and all tests for disease and parasites are negative, the new animal can be introduced to the resident group. Care should be taken during this period with chickens, who have social structures which may encourage aggression to new arrivals. Gradual introduction in these situations should be undertaken, allowing the resident animals to see the new animal through a fence or other barrier, then introducing the animal for short periods of time gradually over several days or weeks lengthening the exposure until the animals are all getting along. See INTRODUCING ROOSTERS AND NEW FLOCK MEMBERS. 3. Biosecurity & Zoonoses a) Types of infectious/zoonotic diseases of Chickens and other birds — Psittacosis (Ornithosis in humans), Salmonellosis, Campylobacter b) Vectors & transmission — Psittacosis is transmitted by inhaling dust from infected feathers or manure. Salmonella and Campylobacter is through direct contact with contaminated food or water. c) Prevention — animals suspected of having zoonotic infectious diseases should be isolated in a quarantine area, and gloves and masks should be used when working with them. Disinfectant footbaths or disposable footwear /clothing should be worn when cleaning /treating and handling the animal. Feces should be disposed of promptly. Contact with animals should be kept to a minimum and no visitors should be allowed in the area. Housing animals in spacious, clean and relatively dust free environments will keep them healthy and will minimize human exposure to infectious disease. 4. Health & Wellness Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6/09 a) Diet & exercise - All domestic fowl should be given diets that are properly formulated and adequate for the individual animal. All animals should have outdoor access and sufficient indoor shelter space that allows them to exercise and perform normal behaviors freely. b) Preventative medicine & prophylaxis including exams, grooming, testing, vaccination, treatment — All animals should be examined on a regular basis and checked for any signs of illness, including weight loss, diarrhea, hidden injuries, anorexia, unusual feather loss, or depressed attitude, and treated for any problems that may be observed. A veterinarian should be consulted for any illness or injury that is not easily treatable. Fecals should betaken from all animals on a regular basis and examined by a lab or qualified individual for parasites. Domestic fowl should be wormed prophylactically on a regular basis, depending on the climate and quality of pasture. Grazing animals should be rotated in pastures to reduce parasite levels. Fecals from these animals should be periodically examined to determine the efficacy of the treatment program so that adjustments can be made when necessary. Birds do not require vaccinations. D. Safety & Security 1. General a) Facility - Exterior area should have a perimeter fence which prevents or discourages unannounced visitors and promotes the safety and security of the animals. b) Enclosures — All fencing and shelters should be checked regularly for disrepair and maintained adequately to prevent escapes or injury to the animals. Problems such as leaking roofs or design problems of shelters which cause flooding into sleeping areas should be repaired promptly to prevent discomfort and disease. 2. Emergency & Disaster Preparedness a) Evacuation, transportation, shelter & temporary construction — A policy and plan should be in place for evacuation in case of natural disaster or other emergency situation. This policy should be familiar to all personnel and include details of methods of transporting animals from the sanctuary, contacts who can assist with transportation, and alternative housing for emergency situations. b) Equipment & Supplies Sufficient carriers should be available for domestic fowl. Nets should be readily accessible for capturing flighty chickens or other birds, if necessary. 3. Animal Escape a) Equipment - Capture equipment such as nets of various sizes and crates for chickens, turkeys and waterfowl should be readily available to aid in capturing escaped animals. Domestic fowl do not normally pose a threat to the community, but their lives may be in jeopardy if they escape out onto streets with cars, dogs, etc. For this reason it is important to maintain pasture fences in a good state of repair and to capture escaped animals as soon as possible. b) Handling — Escaped animals should be handled carefully as they may be extremely Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 5/6/09 excited or frightened. Care should be taken to avoid injuries. It is best to get the animals in a carrier as soon as possible after capturing them and to minimize handling until the animal is calmer and has been returned to his/her normal environment. 4. Injury a) Procedure - Animals who have been injured should be isolated and examined immediately to determine the severity of the injury. Superficial injuries should be treated with supplies which should be at hand. A veterinarian should be notified and summoned immediately for injuries that are serious or life threatening. Veterinary phone numbers should be posted in a prominent place which is accessible to staff. Crates and bedding should be readily accessible to transport smaller animals such as chickens and other birds to a vet hospital if necessary. b) Supplies — First aid type supplies should be readily available and accessible for treating injuries. Some of the items that should be included are roll gauze, gauze pads, tape, vetwrap, blood stop powder, antibiotic ointment, antibacterial scrub and solution, and bandage scissors. c) Restraint, handling & transport - Animals who are seriously injured and need to be transported to a vet should be handled carefully and minimally to avoid causing a more serious injury. They should be transported in a carrier or vehicle with sufficient bedding and /or padding to protect the injury. Fractures should be stabilized with a splint or sufficient bandage prior to transport. Further reading on chicken care: Johannes Paul, Keeping Pet Chickens, Barbara Kilarski, Keep Chickens! Tending Small Flocks in Cities, Suburbs, and Other Small Spaces- Gail Damerow, Building Chicken Coops: Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin A -224, Juliette de Bairacli Levy, The Complete Herbal Handbook for Farm and Stable, London - Boston: Faber and Faber, 1952; Paperback 1984. Rick & Gail Luttmann, Chickens in your Backyard, Emmaus, PA 18049: Rodale Press, 1976. Paperback (ph: 610/967 - 5171). G. McBride et al., "The Social Organization and Behavior of the Feral Domestic Fowl," Animal Behavior Monographs, Part Three, Vol. 2, No. 3, 1969, pp. 127 -181. Library. Page Smith & Charles Daniel, The Chicken Book, Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1975. Library. David Sullenberger, 'Poultry Housing Considerations for Low Input Small Scale Producers," TimeWarrior Farm Chronicle Special Reports. Order from Time Warrior Farm, P.O. Box 1480, Anthony, NM 88021 (ph: 505/882- 4376). Lesley Rogers, The Development of Brain and Behavior in the Chicken (New York: CABI Publishing, 1996). http:// www. farmanimalshelters .org /care_chicken.htm http: //www.upc- online,org /chickens/ http:// www. brittonclouse .com /chickenrunrescue Chicken Run Rescue Recommendations MACC Chicken Work Group 516/09 PUBLIC SAFETY, HEALTH AND WELFARE COMMISSION MINUTES OF MEETING January 15, 2013 1. Pursuant to due notice, a meeting of the Public Safety, Health and Welfare Commission was held at the City Hall Council Chambers. 01A. CALL TO ORDER: The January 15, 2013 meeting of the Cottage Grove Public Safety, Health and Welfare Commission was called to order at 7:00 p.m. MEMBERS PRESENT: Brian Hagen, Jodi Lewis, AJ Jannsen, Jim Neuenfeldt, Dave Barkow MEMBERS ABSENT: Lori Hedican, Nick Maciejewski STAFF PRESENT: Deputy Director of Public Safety Pete Koerner, Fire Chief Rick Redenius, Senior Planner John McCool 01B. APPROVAL OF AGENDA Chairperson Brian Hagen presented the January 15, 2013 agenda of the Public Safety, Health and Welfare Commission for review. On a motion by Commission member Jim Neuenfeldt, seconded by Commission member Jodi Lewis, the January 15, 2013 agenda was accepted and approved by the Commission. Motion carried. 2. OPEN FORUM Chairperson Hagen invited citizens present to address the Commission regarding any matters that were not on the approved agenda. There being no items, Chairperson Hagen closed the Open Forum segment of the meeting. 3. COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PRESENTATION 03A. Senior Planner John McCool regarding poultry and fowl Senior Planner McCool provided the Commission with a short presentation. He informed the Commission that at the Planning Commission’s January meeting, it was decided not to proceed in drafting any amendments to the Zoning Ordinance or Animal Control Ordinance for this matter and that some of the Commission members expressed concerns for health risks that these types of animals might pose in urban neighborhoods. They requested that the Public Safety, Health and Welfare Commission also have an opportunity to review and make recommendations. Page 2 PSHWC Meeting January 15, 2013 At the conclusion of the presentation, the Commission was asked to make a recommendation whether or not amendments to the City Code should be drafted for purposes of allowing poultry and/or fowl in the backyard of urban residential lots. The Commission’s main question and concern was how the City would enforce the ordinance if amended and what would be the challenges. They were advised that none of the cities surveyed were able to estimate a dollar amount for time spent on enforcement. If asked, Law Enforcement could do a review of calls for service pertaining to complaints on poultry/fowl in their cities but this would provide a number only. John McCool did note that the amount of people wanting poultry/foul would be a small percentage. Another Commission member did ask who from the city would enforce? Captain Koerner advised the Commission that enforcement would need to be a coordinated effort. The animal control portion would be handled by the Community Service Officer and anything pertaining to the coop would be handled by the Planning Department. A similar comparison is that with a dangerous dog, the Community Service Officer works with the City Clerk to ensure proper registration and compliance. We do coordinate the kennel inspection with the planning department/code enforcement. The Commission was concerned about the type of coop and how we could enforce the upkeep and to keep it clean. Commission members felt that if the coop did not receive routine cleaning that it would create a health hazard. In regards to coop locations, they were concerned about setbacks from neighboring yards. It was felt that if there were an amendment that the license fee would need to be set high to ensure the person would maintain the coop. Commission member Jannsen was aware of “urban farming” however would not want to see the chickens slaughtered on site. Commission member Neuenfeldt commented in regards to lot sizes, a concern was that if allowed in a smaller lot, how much of the lot is actually taken from the home/structures and driveway. A comment was made that at least 3 acres would be needed. The Commission also commented about having one hundred percent of the neighbors being in agreement with a homeowner being allowed. Commission members felt this would be very difficult to get one hundred percent. Page 3 PSHWC Meeting January 15, 2013 After an opportunity to ask questions and have discussion, a motion to not proceed in drafting any amendments to the Zoning Ordinance or Animal Control Ordinance for this matter was made by Brian Hagen, seconded by Jodi Lewis. Motion carried. The Commission had no additional comments at this time and thanked him for his presentation. 4. OLD BUSINESS None at this time. 5. NEW BUSINESS None at this time. 6. RESPONSE TO PREVIOUSLY RAISED COMMENTS AND REQUEST None at this time. 7. COMMISSION COMMENTS AND REQUESTS None at this time 8. STAFF REPORTS 08A. POLICE - Captain Koerner advised the Commission that two new police officers have been hired, Nick Bailey and Scott Schaver. Nick Bailey was a Reserve and CSO here and Scott Schaver was on the Fire Department for 9 years and was a CSO here as well. He added that the city will be hiring two replacement CSOs. Captain Koerner informed the Commission that the city has an agreement with the Woodbury Animal Humane Society to use as our impound facility. Our 10 year agreement with Park Grove Pet Hospital has ended and cost savings was an issue for agreeing to use the Animal Humane Society. There is a drop box for unused medicine drive up located at the South Washington County Service Center so now citizens won’t have to drive to Stillwater to drop off their unused medicine. On January 22, 2013, Cottage Grove Fire Department and Regions will cohost a car seat clinic at Fire Station 2 from 4 – 7 pm. Page 4 PSHWC Meeting January 15, 2013 08B. FIRE - Fire Chief Redenius advised the commission that there have been some position changes. Fire Marshal PJ McMahon’s title will be Deputy Fire Chief/Fire Marshal and have a Monday – Friday work schedule. Also EMS Coordinator Wes Halvorsen’s title will be Deputy Fire Chief/EMS Coordinator and also have a Monday-Friday work schedule. Fire Fighter/medic Andrea Place has been hired as full time to assist with medical staffing. He went on to say shared services agreement with Woodbury is working well. In 2012, there were 2,502 reports filed to the EMS and Fire State Data Base. Of those, 280 were fire related, 2,222 were EMS related. This is up 7 to 9%, but said it’s closer to 10%. Over Christmas, between 12/23 and 12/26, there were 47 calls in three days. 40 were EMS, 7 were fire, 3 of these were working fires. On January 14, eleven members started Fire fighter I and II at Century College and should be done May 4. 08C. COUNCIL - Council member Lerhke introduced himself as the Council Liaison to the Commission and provided some recaps. He advised the Commission that the Pavement Management project has been delayed from last year. He commented the project has a price tag between 7 – 9 million dollars. th He went on to say that Hinton Avenue, north of 80 Street to the Woodbury border will be studied for improvements. He added that there will be a goal setting session with the Council and invited any Commission member to reach out to the Council with any concerns or questions they might have. 10. ADJOURN Motion by Commission member Lewis, seconded by Commission member Neuenfeldt to adjourn the meeting at 8:09 p.m. Motion carried. Respectfully submitted, Cyndee Engfer – Administrative Secretary Public Safety Department Poultry and Fowl Ordinance Discussion City Council and Advisory Joint Meeting April 20, 2013 RESPONSES AND COMMENTS RECEIVED SHOWN IN RED COLOR. 14 ❑ YES 1. Accept the Planning Commission's and Public Safety, Health and Welfare Commission's recommendations not to amend City ordinances to allow 6 [1 NO poultry and /or fowl in the back yard of urban residential lots. 5 ❑ YES 2. Amend the City's Zoning Ordinance to change the five acre minimum requirement to a different minimum acreage requirement. 11 ❑ NO a) If you think there should be a change for the minimum acreage requirement, what should that change be? (check one) 1 ❑ 10 acres 2 ❑ 5 acres (current requirement) ❑ 4 acres ❑ 3 acres ❑ 2 acres 2 ❑ 1 acre 1 ❑ 0.50 acre 1 ❑ 0.25 acre b) Neighboring property owner /tenant's written approval? (check one) 3 ❑ 100 % adjoining landowner /tenant. 2 ❑ 100 % property owner /tenant within 150 feet. 2 ❑ 100 % property owner /tenant within 500 feet. 1 Less than 100% and 150 feet. 1 None of the above — Alternatives needed. c) Minimum setback between coop /pen to a neighboring residential dwelling. (check one) 4 ❑ 100 feet 1 ❑ 75 feet 3 ❑ 50 feet 2 ❑ 25 feet ❑ 15 feet ❑ 10 feet COMMENTS RECEIVED: 1. No poultry or fowl in urban residential — Huge administrative problems. 2. Need further study. Need to address other animals like goats, pigs, etc. Be more comprehensive. 3. This belongs on farmland, not residential.